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just run the winch on 24 volts. if it is a big winch it will not care, just run a little faster. monitor the temp.

replacing the quill would be your only issue, timing it would be just like assymbling a fresh motor. just know how to position all the marks and you would be done. i agree, you twisted the quill off when you tried to remove the HH without knowing how. in any event, the HH only comes out in ONE...

classic case of bad HH. it cannot obtain enough pressure at cranking speed of about 300 rpm. with ether you get it up to a speed where it can. you could also tow it and it would start when the rpm passed 1000 or so.

since that part is a part of the HH and it is not really considered serviceable you may not find it available. how was the fit of the plunger in the HH? you can always make a new drive piece or repair the old one.

try shifting it with the truck going 10mph and see what happens.

well, you can check it fairly easily, but the drive piece looks like it got damaged because the plunger would not turn. the plunger must look bright and polished, like it is chromed although it is not. wash the HH and the plunger in clean solvent and see that the plunger goes into the HH. next...

check out a company called DAKOTA DIGITAL, they make digital converters that are programable to do just the sort of thing you may want. i used one in my subaru conversion to get a speedo sig from the abs sensor, it was very easy and can be calibrated with a gps. (98 outback with 06 sti drive train)

so it sounds like you are not using any type of thermostatic control? you could have then just tied the clutch and the condenser fan to one wire and one switch since you almost always want both to run at the same time.

the one in the picture will not be any good, need whole HH

i have not needed to adj my belts since post # 27, so the special gates belts really work.

good time to add power steering

7 psi boost is way below stock power setting of 9. max boost will work out to near 14 psi depending on air temp.

actually the govenor IS something you should be adjusting. DOWN!! under the cover on the rear of the IP is the high idle screw, i set mine to run at 2550 rpm full throttle in neutral. i expect to have this engine for another 30 years.

no, just do not engage the front drive and it will just sit there. if the brakes were dragging, how would you get the drum off and back on? check that the wheel spins freely before you drive. apply the brakes harshly a couple of times and see that it still spins freely, you may have a bad hose...

edited for more info you don't want to 'flip' the box, only rotate it 90 to 180 anti clockwise on the frame. remove the pitman arm first as it has to stay in the orientation it is now. then rotate the box around the shaft to where it best conforms to the MK48 shaft. everything will turn the...

drive it with the axle drive hub off and see if it gets hot. (remove both sides)

with that size tire you will not have enough power for any more OD.

the kind of a/c you would use on a deuce really does not need any controls beyond the thermostat. just a very simple system,

no, but it is necessary to read and understand the instructions given here in many posts or you will have nothing but problems.

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