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well, they are older and a lot of them are riveted but i think i have seen seme welded ones. probably most are scrapped by now.

i always thought that was for the compressor when there is a fording kit installed.

you do know that the m-135 wheels have 1 1/2" more off set?? solves many 'problems'

i can't imagine the bearings being expensive if they are ball, what is the number, i'll check my supplier. they usually are much lower than anyone else.

given that in the last 15 years, there have never been any transmission discovered that will replace the 3053, i really doubt it now. length is always a BIG issue.

why not just fix what you have?

removing the thermostat is a really bad move. diesels run better when hot, plus this is not a normal thermostat, it is a 3 way valve.

no it is not common at all. there are / were millions of these transmissions.

the 3053 trans is very strong and will last for longer than much of the rest of your truck. problem is they are abused by people in the mil, and you can eventually break anything if you try long enough. fix what you have, take care of it, and you will never have another problem with the trans.

a restriction will not cause the gauge to read low unless you have a leak as well.

if you can stop without panicking the air pack is working. it a LOT of pedal pressure without air.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?94189-MultiFuel-Compressor-Wrench&highlight=compressor+tool

buy the tool, it is a good investment and you will need it again.

i would agree. all these alternative fuels may run, but they need to be CLEAN. filtered down to microns, and then there may still be abrasive material left. the only other possibility, and it is a long shot, is that the HH is 180° out. i only say this since it is a common problem when people...

well that is good and will make it easier to reinstall the HH. you will still need to find tdc on compression for #1 by removing the front valve cover and lining up the ip pointer. if the valves for #1 have clearance you are good, otherwise turn the engine one turn and check. now with that set...

ok, well now you are going to have a very hard time removing the HH again since you will not know where to set the ip position. DO NOT FORCE IT as you know now it should come out easily. when you are ready to actually pull the HH, start with the red tooth in front of the pointer and line up a...

if you have removed the bottom broken part of the quill shaft, you should now be able to turn the gear on the HH with a small scrfewdriver until the red tooth is lined up. now it should lift out and also the top of the quill should fall out. nope i looked and it looks like you will need to...

it does not matter that you turned the gear on the HH, it will go in in any position, but ONLY ONE IS CORRECT. when you put the HH back in and before anything turned, was the red tooth lined up with it's pointer?? if you are not completely sure, remove the ip timing window and line up that...

when you took the HH out you should have lined the red tooth up first. then the HH would come right out easy and if you did not turn the MOTOR the HH would go right back in easy with no problem when you lined the red tooth up for that process. if this is exactly what you did the timing should be...

you should notice quite a improvement in braking with air compared to without. still takes quite a bit of push to apply, but without air you really have to stand on it. without air you are actually applying the brakes manualy. with air you are not really applying the brakes, you are just moving...