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The aftermarket heater cores allow more air to escape around the sides of the heater core instead if being forced through it. If you can find a original core it will fix your problem. If not then sealing the gap left will help this is what I plan on using...
Dont get us wrong. The starter bolts shearing can be helped by a starter bracket. The starter run is solved by the dog head relay mod. So far your in about 30 dollars for preventive maintenance. The electrical isnt expensive unless you have to get alternators rebuilt. Once you get or make sure...
If you have no voltage at the 10 amp fuse then tracing backwards I think your next step would be fusible links. Someone correct me if I am wrong I think that is the next step in the circuit though.
Also follow the the circuit on the pcb and check voltage at the pin on the connector for the gen2 light. You will more than likely have voltage there if you have it at the 10amp fuse. If you have voltage at the pin but none at the socket and cleaning the contacts does not help you may have to...
If you have a multi meter check both sides of the 10amp fuse in the bottom of the fuse block. If you have 24v at both sides move to the bulb and socket pull the bulb and check voltage at bulb socket if you have no voltage there then it is likely your pcb or contacts. Lightly clean the pcb...
Can't start one 3 times when the Genious previous owner put in a 12v starter. Which is replaced now that I had the money to get a 24v one. Yes a 12v starter will work for a little while but it pulls alot of amps and really doesn't turn over fast enough. Plus after a little while the 24v cooks it.
I had been having intermittent charging issues on Gunny for a year or so. I was scared to drive it more that a couple miles. Since everyone on here helped me figure out my charging system I got to drive him almost 100miles round trip yesterday. Let me tell you it felt good to get some miles on...
Yeah the charging system can be a pain but not to bad once you wrap your head around how it works. I have a M1009 and the engine hasn't given me any problems. The main issue on thes are electrical component failure but being in a dry area helps and as long as everything works right just keep up...
The order in which to check the components in the circuit helped me. 10amp fuse at the bottom of the fuse block. Then bulb, socket, and circuit board. Then the relay. Then the diode. You may already know all of that but knowing the order helps
I dont know about all of it but #3 is correct that is your glow plug relay. The circled item to the right was part of your windshield wiper power circuit that someone has bypassed to cancel out those three noise reducers the little round grey things. They commonly cause wiper issues and it hurts...
I have no idea. I hooked my power probe up to each bulb when i replaced the pcb and sent 12v to them and any that didn't light i replaced. That bulb still lights so i am not sure what the deal is there.
Problem solved on Gen2 now. The bulb that was in it was perfectly fine but I switched it for a 194 and bam gen2 is now charging. I have 14.8 at the rear battery and 14.3 at the front one. Thanks to everyone that attempted to help me on this. With your help and the rest of the SS forum someone...
Yeah I may consider fuses down the road this was just a cheaper way to figure out what my problem was. I got 10ft of 12,14,and16 ga fusible link wire for about $22 all in.
Just replaced the two larger fusible links on the driver side of the 12v distribution terminal that lead to the harness even though they both looked fine and had continuity. Then bam driver side gen 1 is charging. Now to figure out gen2.
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