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The MWO doesn’t remove the battery box…. Just adds the stiffener for the battery box cover and additional angled bracket on the back to hold it down. And then remove old drivers base, add new brackets and backing plates. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I gave him the part number for the rails that are used in the seat MWO. It looks like he’s adding that seat base in place of the battery box after relocating the batteries. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

12343052 is the rail part number. Mac has them in stock…. Black Dog Customs is a little cheaper though. https://blackdogcustoms.com/product/drivers-seat-base-mounts/ Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Electronic speedo install notes I made a while back. I built the harness copied from an OEM but have no details about how it’s “supposed” to be routed. The wire numbers are correct and matched my truck. I didn’t have the second splitter required because I ran out of connectors so I didn’t...

Took me a while to find this drawing, had to share! I’m just a little late to this party…. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s the tach installation info. Not easy to follow because it’s a crap scan from crap drawings, but it calls out circuit numbers and locations. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The 27M and 27N are tied to the fuel gauge (power) and then to the tach harness. That’s the only place I’ve found those numbers mentioned was doing tach installs. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I bought straight from the manufacturer, email a couple posts above. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Wire goes through the rubber and into the pin, I’ve never used the washer on the “male” connectors, the gets crimped. The wire going through the rubber connector is tight, that’s normal for all of these type connectors. If it doesn’t fit then they’re either wrong gauge (14 ga is much more...

X doors leak and rattle more than soft doors. If you take the time to fit them properly and work on seals and rattle reduction, they’re a little better. My soft doors sealed well and were quiet, I moved to X doors because I added a helmet top and they fit better. If you’re expecting a night...

I just installed one of these, parts are available from the manufacturer. Email Steve Mikes at smikes@mcclarinplastics.com Yup can get part numbers from here https://www.hmmwvinscale.com/AMTECH%20Parts%20List%20For%20Helmet%20Hardtop%20System.pdf Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The male side can be done by removing the clip, removing the old boot and pushing a new boot on. Female side requires cutting off and replacing the contact. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

As soon as they come in, and I get home from travel I’ll send pics! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I was able to order the original latches from McClarin Plastics today. They’ll quote almost any part, just have to ask. The contact for quotes is Steve Mikes smikes@mcclarinplastics.com I had emailed them before, same email, but now they respond very quickly with a quote and the order...

Batteries can cause charging issues…. Have you checked them? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It’s possible they might be able to be ordered OEM. Finally got an email from McClarin Plastics with a number to call. If it works I’ll pass it along… Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Those are almost exactly what the “factory” ones are supposed to be (Eberhard 770 series). Where did you find them for sale? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s how mine was installed, 2 bolts in the rear. Was just fine until I removed it to put on a helmet top. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Part number is 12460150B3. I’ve got a set that I haven’t decided to install yet… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The “retainer” aka “the ring in the pic Action posted” can be purchased at Kascar around $15ea. I think they’re meant to be welded in place. I’ve looked into replacing the arms as well but they’re pricey (like all HMMWV stuff). Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk