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The white/opaque hose you speak of, should just be the drain. Probably need to break out 'ye ol' test light and make sure you are getting power back there. my rear blower had lost some fins on the fan. Although it would kick on, it vibrated to high heaven and eventually shook the ground wire...

ah yes... easy to bypass the mixing valve. I just popped mine up and reset it into the holder again in the forward position(IIRC) that kept it closed. The engine alone generates enough heat for most of our winters here in central Texas. Worst case scenario, I pop it back in the other position...

There is a drawing floating around here(it might be for the 1114) that shows the layout for the system. It's actually very straightforward as there are only a few wires that run to that box. My rear blower failed and I am currently in the process of replacing it. Most of the blowers that I found...

A few tools were indeed tossed! I think that's an actual step in the TM(or at least it should be). "If you have tried all of the above and are still experiencing an issue, grab the 3/4 inch wrench and chunk it at an inanimate object; Then try the previous steps again" Justin

Just a final update.... After basically "blueprinting" the #3 IP, it still had a slight drag when hot(running for 10+ minutes when under 80+% load). The fluctuation was slight, but present and you could still feel a slight drag on the rack when hot. I removed the IP once again and went over it...

Of the 2 sticky ones, I was able to polish one of them and get it operating smoothly. I think the other one may be a lost cause though. I will attempt once more to fine polish it and get it operating correctly. Small steps on the polishing front! That said, it will now hold a 40% load without...

Does anyone have a diagram of just the IP disassembled? I perused the TM, but I didn't see the lower assembly diagram. I am sure I can just "wing it", but it would be easier if I had that diagram.... I cleaned those 2 up with some 2k grit and have it in the ultrasonic now.... Justin

Here is the latest update. I am 96% sure that it is the drag on the IP's when they heat up. I am pulling the 2 questionable ones out today and disassembling/clearancing them. I will then test in the ultrasonic again as I did last time. This is the first time I have ever seen the IP's drag when...

and if you are dead set on replacing it with the same connector, it's just a molex 2 pin(I forgot the pin diameter). You should be able to find them at a real electronics store, or online as long as you know the pin diameter.

Thanks Ray, I also thought initially this may have been the issue(especially with the corrosion that was present in some ares). When I reinstalled them this time, I measured out the drop in the IP from the block to when I could slide the rack, and they all seem to be a touch over 1.5mm(not an...

Also Checked for this.... rack is actually in good condition, buttttt, I think 2 of the injection pumps may experiencing drag when hot. I cranked up the Ultrasonic Cleaner to 70C and let them bake in there for over an hour. There was slight drag on #2 and #3 compared to zero drag on #1 and #4...

btw, that's running off of a jerry can with diesel and sea foam in it... so I took everything factory out of the equation sans fuel pump, injectors, IP's and governor system. The pump tested good, but I am to the point, I may throw a couple parts at it for testing. I have a few spare gen's, but...

ATF and Sea foam in crankcase complete. Ran it for about 30m, then dumped it out, refilled with 15w40, hooked her up to a load, and let her rip.... Same issue.... dang it. It'll take 13kw loads all day long as long as it doesn't swing too far south and trip it on LOP. In my infinite...

Agreed on the return lines. Almost all of the gen's I have, that's usually 1st on my to do list, especially if they've been sitting a while. I replaced 100% of the return line fuel system and T's, and all filters in addition to blowing out all of the pressure(high and low) hard lines. I have...

I will try it! The problem still persists.... The fuel rack is sticking in its forward(no fuel) position when it heats up. It appears that the clearance(possibly to one of the IP's) tightens up with heat and creates drag on the entire rack. I am able to go in through the governor adjust hole in...

Thank you sir. I removed the entire accessible parts of the fuel system(hard lines, soft lines, IP's, fuel tank, etc...). Inspected and blew out all hard lines and soft lines, replaced the return line all the way to the tank. Primed the system and had a steady stream of fuel out of the return...

How dinged up are we talking? :) I am also in Austin(out by Oasis) and have my business in Leander. I'd be interested in them though. PM me to discuss

Thank you for the reply! I am glad you got it fixed. In my case, I suppose I need to tear down the front so I can access the linkage for the fuel supply/governor/rack. Thanks again! Justin

Did you ever figure out the issue? I am having a very similar problem with one of my 803A sets. 2010 - no reset- ~600 hours on set, Fresh fuel/filters, pump consistently returning fuel. Starts and runs fine when cold(usual black smoke on start up), but as it warms up, the rpm starts to...

FWIW, I have found that it is possible to revive many of these pumps with a healthy dose of WD-40 and shorting it directly to 24+ volts over and over; if it's just a gum issue. For the inexpensive price of these pumps, it's not really even worth it though(especially if it's the square Facet...