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I could be mistaken, but that looks like an 8xx slave port. If memory serves, the 003a is a round 2pin(side by side pins) instead of the round single pin.
Please keep in mind that this is all off the top of my head. The slave +(P50K2) can also connect to the BT1+ or the + side on the solenoid(this is how mine is run on the 003a). Hopefully it helps you to differentiate the wires.
This is how your starter should look.... nothing should be connected to the output wire of the solenoid that goes to the starter except for the starter itself. There are 2 additional wires IIRC that MUST be connected to the solenoid and starter for the + and - to the control box, in Addition to...
your battery side should look like this pic.... there should also be 2 smaller wires coming from your control box(panel) that hook up to the respective + and - terminals on the starter, then there is the small trigger wire to activate the solenoid. Your other post got deleted and I forgot what...
SUCCESS!!! A little WD40(A Lot), a little electrical cleaner(A Lot), a 3/8 wrench to loosen the long screws, and a BFH on the head of the switch(after removing the very Stuck knob), and it switches NORMALLY now(Remember, it still switched physically, but no change in voltage). I now have all...
Got it! I never actually separated the switch for the WD40, so basically it's just on the outside of the reconnection switch at this point. I will pick up some of the spray solution as well before I separate, and give it a good dousing with whichever electric cleaner I can find. I did give it...
Thank you sir. When I get back out to the barn, I will definitely try to the loosening the bolt method to let it seep in. The switch does indeed move now(albeit not easily), but the voltage is stuck at 120V across L1-L3, ~70V from L1-L0, and ~35V from L3-L0 when in the 120/240V position, so it...
Is there anyway you could fire it up and get it to 120%+ load for a little while? Try to run it hard as the oil rings may be Carboned up. I don't know a ton about the 002/003 in particular, but I do know air cooled/oil cooled motors quite well. They are much more susceptible to carbon fouling...
Additional to what's mentioned above, What oil are you using? I have seen on air cooled engines that using too thin of a viscosity can burn through it pretty quickly.... and can also result in sticky rings. Sometimes just bumping up the viscosity can help with oil consumption although 5+ quarts...
As KLOPPK mentioned, the 240v garage heaters work great as a semi portable load bank. I waited for a good deal on the 4500/6500 watt ones and bought a couple of them. You can find them for around 80 bucks if you look around(or cheaper if you use FB or CL). Word of caution though.... they are not...
and like you said, I always have the option of hard wiring it to 120/240 although whacking it with a large hammer suddenly seems much easier than tracing all the wires for a hard wire solution. Ha
Thank you for the quick response! That's kind of what I was thinking on the switch... I will try the methods discussed here(loosening the long bolts just enough to squirt some WD40 in there) and the Tippetty tappetty with a brass punch and a hammer.... one man's tap is another man's hard blow...
Hey Guys,
First off I want to thank everyone for their contributions on this forum. I am a "long time listener, first time caller" and have gained a wealth of information from this forum. I currently own 3 MEP803A's, 2 802A's, and the hell spawn 003A(kidding, but more on this later). I am...
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