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Oh, here by the way...

I'm talking about the inserts that go inside the tubing. I can't make the old ones work with air brake line at all. They are visibly larger than the ones that are to be used with air brake line.

For the record, even the LDS is screaming at that speed. 70 is fine for cruising, because it is a few hundred rpm less. I wouldn't run at 75 for any length of time, but it sure brings on a smile when you see your speedometer needle pointing straight down at the floor.:driver:

Yeah it is doable, obviously. All my vibrations and rattles actually stop once I get over 50, so yes it is smooth, just like you said. Just be sure your brakes are in good shape. Tires too. And be sure your front axle u-bolts are tight.

If it works, and is more affordable, and still safe for the trans and long lasting, I have no problem with it.

Poor feller... you got shorted.

From all of our discussion about this, the problem is with machining the factory part. There just isn't much material to work with to make a reliable part.

You can't reuse the inserts that are in the old line. They are slightly larger in diameter and won't go inside the air brake line. They will go if you heat the line with a lighter or heat gun, but then the threaded fittings won't slide down over them because it makes the line too large.

If so, that's a piss poor way to do it.

Trade you a mighty mite for the jeep.

You are dealing with morons who have never driven anything other than front wheel drive compact cars. Transfer case? What's that?

You can't actually tighten the screws down. Just snug them down a hair at a time until the lever binds, then back off a touch. This is why they have to be safety wired.

That's why I said I don't want to pick it apart before seeing what he did. Don't want to make an a$$ out of myself, especially if it is of sound design.

Oh alright. Sounded like you were going to use a lapping compound with the hone. 220 or 240 grit should be fine for this application.

That would be super tiny. And then the spindle gets real thing near the only area that sees any stress on the whole part. Let's see what you got. I don't want to rain on your parade unjustly.

You don't want to use anything with grit when you hone them. The hone itself has all the grit it needs. Just use 30w motor oil as the honing lubricant. The hone, and oil is all you need. All cylinders should be honed unless they are chrome lined. The multifuel liners are not chrome lined. Pull...

I reuse the original fittings and just add a tubing insert and a new crush ring.

So plumb the exhaust into a "hotbox" with a large coil of copper tubing inside. Make it work like a reverse distillery. Build your box with the exhaust plumbed in at the bottom, and an adjustable vent at the top for controlling exhaust flow and heat loss. Insulate the box. It'll cut down on...

Hurry up, before I start cracking the whip on you!

Tighten it up and see if it stops. It may, but it is probably time to replace all those old plastic lines anyway. One of those cracks or blows off and you'll be stranded for sure. I've seen them so brittle they break off when you move them to inspect them. All you need is some air brake line and...