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Hard to see anything in the pics. Loosen the injector lines and snug them back down, that should stop those leaks. Otherwise, all I can see from the pics is that you have a flame heater to delete, and an FDC to bypass...:|

I don't have any idea if your sensor is good or not. All I have is the tachometer. Obviously both of them are prone to failure, so it is a 50/50 shot.

Happy to report that so far my test unit that I installed with my new transmission, overdrive, and LDS, is now just over 4,000 miles leak free. Sure is nice to have a bone dry bellhousing. I'll have to get back with my machinist soon and see what we can do about production. I would like to...

I can't count how many vehicles I've had to put two or more of them in before getting one that worked in all my years working in automotive shops. I've also had similar luck with them in civilian vehicles I've owned. That doesn't even count the ones that would work for two days, or a week, and...

$65 plus the ride. A steal considering it is the proper tach, and you can't find them anywhere. It shows 642 hours.

I would wholeheartedly agree.

Airtex pumps are garbage. Spend your money elsewhere.

Sounds promising. Fix that leak on the injector pump though. That is letting it bleed down while it sits.

You find them on Ebay for around $50. If you try to buy it from Parker, it will be over $1000.

On the oil system, sure. On the A3, they did put a check valve in the fuel system, and all it did was cause problems.

That is pretty cool

I have a good takeout....

When you plug the return and turn on your lift pump, if the leak is outside the tank it will show itself. Otherwise it most likely is inside the tank. You do need to fix those other small leaks anyway though. A lot of air can get in where only a small amount of liquid can get out. That should...

Nope. Open the bleed screw on the filter housing and the fuel will bleed back down to the tank. I'm not convinced there actually is a check valve in the pump. I feel like the fuel stays up via static suction.

Do not reuse the cork. Throw it away and just fill the keyway with silicone. When you slide the outer bearing on, make sure the inside of it is clean and grease free. After you slide it on, make sure that you fill the space between the bearing and keyway with silicone again. Then slide the seal...

I installed pull cable type air tank drains today. Tired of cracking my noggin on the pioneer tool rack. I've done a lot more to Bo1's deuce this week than I have to mine, but I do have two rear hubs to go through here soon.

If you do, lengthen the frame of the truck too. These truck frames flex almost as much as the suspension does. If you don't extend the frame rails to make the box move with the frame, you'll tear it apart in short order.

Well, that, or a crankcase full of fuel.

Yep. I have one in mine now too. Those are a MUCH better pump than the original Olympic pump. Quieter too, not that it really matters. Dmetalmiki, I'm glad you've had exceedingly good luck with your trucks, and I'm not sure how much you actually drive them, but it must not be enough cumulative...

It really needs to have the lift pump working. Starving the hydraulic head for fuel will accelerate wear over time. When you pull fuel through the filters, instead of pushing it, you cause cavitation in the fuel supply, which is micro bubbles of air. It will run, but it is bad for it. Cavitation...