Search results

I forgot about the outside braces Keith. The trucks are very well set up.

The CUCV truck pintle is mounted to a very thik step bumper which has 6 bolts on each side holding it to the frame rails. Then there are a pair of angled pieces that bolt to the pintle and have 2 bolts each holding them to the frame. Very sturdy and well thought out. The M1009 is pretty much...

Rory said it all about the M1009. Chevy rated the K5 Blazer with a frame mounted hitch at 5,000 pound trailer pulling with a 500 pound tongue weight.

A few months and a few more things learned. I have another 600 or so miles of pulling a loaded trailer now. As mentioned above, the steering shaft and steering box swap really helped. It was still kind of iffy feeling at times though with the loaded trailer. I know the 4x4 3/4 ton Suburban's...

My M1009 was getting around 5000 a year for a few years until I started driving the Cowdog. My son was using his M1009 for around 8k a year until he went to college.

Several different things here. The truck is a 12 volt truck. Only part of the starting system and part of the glow plug system get 24 volts. Plus the slave cable wiring and how the passenger side alternator ties in is it for 24 volts. The resistor on the firewall is where 24 volts is stepped...

You need the 1964 TM. It covers both engines. There is also a TM from 1951 that is a single book which is basically an all in one for the Gasser trucks.

That would have been good information to include in the first post. Do you have this: http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/nn10.pdf That is the only literature that might help you since your truck is now in the "experimental wiring system" category.

You checked the fuse but maybe the fuse isn't making contact after the fuse. If you can remove the fuse and use a pick to bend the fuse holder contacts in a bit along with cleaning them. It might help. However, that doesn't explain your 8 volts. Or the getting bright just before it went dark...

OK. So a fast idle solenoid is what you need? I thought some shop was trying to take you for a long expensive ride by your first post. Are you sure the solenoid is bad? They don't have the power to open the throttle by themselves. You have to push the throttle down to around half way and...

Memphis and Antelope Valley are where I found most of my Gasser specific parts. There is also a good bit on Ebay sometimes. Kind of odd, but carb rebuild kits for that massive Holley are listed sometimes.

I just walked around my classroom looking at the valley of a few engines. 1985 CUCV 6.2 no dots. 1987 Chevy 6.2 no dots. 1994 NA Chevy 6.5 dots. 1995 Turbo Chevy 6.5 dots 1997 Turbo Chevy 6.5 dots 2005 GEP 6500 dots spelling out 506. I have a 1988 6.2 at home that I could look at to see if...

Before you go buying parts. Do you want to keep it military spark plugs and wires or go civilian? Everything is different is why I ask and you can be spending money on parts you don't need.

There is no idle air control valve on a 6.2 diesel. It does have a vacuum control module to regulate how much vacuum the transmission vacuum module gets based on throttle position. It looks like a little black plastic thing on the passenger side of the Injection Pump with a pair of vacuum...

Rich said it all. Either works and both require some kind of small customization. The Banks set up if you get a complete set up actually is more square body friendly with the cross over pipe in front and not hitting the front drive shaft and the down pipe going inside the frame compared to the...

The Gasser engine idles at 450 rpm. It sounds like a well oiled sewing machine at the block and like a monster waiting to be let loose at the exhaust. The sounds are awesome to a gear head. I have gotten a best of 4.89 mpg driving mine on the highway at 48-52 mph and a worst of 4.2 mpg on the...

I agree it should be towed to the Rally!

I saw the pictures on Facebook and wondered if you were involved. Cool.

Yes. The non green wire at the sensor on the outside of the passenger rear cylinder head should have 12 volts with the key on all the time. I have an easier time going over the engine to get to the sensor. If you have young knees. Going through the wheel well might be easier.

Something doesn't add up here. The vacuum lines by the IP and the plastic fitting that looks like an F are for the transmission shifting. They have nothing to do with how the engine runs. You could remove them and the engine shouldn't change. Glad you got it fixed, but something just doesn't...