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Anyone measure or know the angle between the lower door and the upper door on our HMMWV’s.
I guess if it was a tire I’d be looking for the negative camber.
This is a military vehicle... just a PCB/EESS, (Protectice Control Box Smart box). No "fuse box".
You should ensure any items you add to the wiring have relays and fuses to keep high voltage switches out of the main cabin.
FYI. I purchased an exMarines ECV non-runner with engine that spins for 12k. Turbo and a/c. Hardtop.
Parts to repair so far 2k. Eventually driving a turbo… priceless.
You have a good deal I think. I’ve seen some for more and a few for less, but yours seems to be a runner. I would still haggle given the bad brake fluid. 10K easy.
If I were to sell my 1987 Slantback with turret, I won’t accept less than 65k.
If you pull this off you are doing well my friend...
I am going to be controversial here.
You are looking to buy a vehicle. The vehicle has damage and they have no idea what they're doing. Additionally they used DEX3/4.
I would do the following... Tell them that this is a very expensive issue and ask what he wants for the vehicle and then offer...
The rear light cup might be plastic BUT where the screws attach the wiring is Copper and the grounding strap and light sockets are galvanized steel. The light buckets attach to the Aluminum body.
You’re an amazing guy who created a duravee, so not looking to go toe to toe. You can PM me and we...
Might be a bad idea unless you have special dielectric grease meant for Aluminum wires used in the 1970's. You might corrode like a mother.
Use stainless steel or Zinc plated steel.
IMHO YMMV
Edit - In the 1970’s they used Aluminum wires. They needed to couple them with Copper at the outlets...
Wish it was 4K cheaper for me to afford one, BUT looks amazing.
Please post pics of your entire interior. I’m sure it will be well received and give many of us ideas.
By the time you’re done you will have an amazing ride.
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