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I have a few of them. I still have a Simpson 260 Series 7M I bought in 1980. The red wire is positive?? Is that correct?:?:

That dang thing drove me nuts!!

Bringing up an old thread here with a similar problem. I was testing the GP system on a recently acquired M1010. The wait light would come on and stay on for an extended period of time. Much longer than normal. I would hear the GP relay close and then open as normal and the wait light stayed...

Our GP card testing has confirmed this "dead zone"as well. There is a temperature window where the GP card does not always come on.

I have 2 trucks that do the exact same thing. The only way to get them to start (when the engine is warm) is to heat the glow plugs some and then they both start right away. The M1009 has a new IP in it and all the cylinders passed a compression test. The latest revision on the GPD2 (C...

Johns plans are to lower the coolant level, sand and irrigate the area needing repair with brake clean and then install the JB Weld. Thanks for the suggestion I will pass it along in the next phone call.

Info passed on to John. Thank you.

On phone with him now. He has some help coming. I will be on standby ready to roll if they need anything. I'm about 2 hours away from him. He lost a freeze plug near the exhaust manifold. Has one coming and will see if he can get her back to operating condition. Will update as news comes in...

Yes it is allowed. Posting in this thread is OK since others have stated what they are bringing.

I will be there with CUCV GP cards.

Try checking the bulb first and all of the fuses. The dark blue wire from the GP card is a switched ground to the Wait light. See if it pulls (switches) to ground when the wait light should be on. The pink/black wire going to the wait light is the positive side. See if it has 12 volts on it...

Ditto. Just take the intake off and check all of the lines. I had the same thing happen to me. Karl

Welcome to the CUCV madness.

Very nice work!!

Your GP relay may be a bit on the tired side. The contacts need to be clean and not burnt or coated with a carbon build up. Karl

I have bought both of them from Classic Parts. They are OEM GM parts, not a crappy reproduction.

These two will work. http://www.classicparts.com/1984-90-Turnsignal-Lever-w_o-Cruisew_o-Pulse-Chrome/productinfo/29-569/#.U5T_bXYjqzo http://www.classicparts.com/1984-89-Turnsignal-Lever-w_o-Cruisew_o-Pulse-Black/productinfo/29-568/#.U5T_k3Yjqzo

AGC fuses are 1.25" long and .25" in diameter. AGY/SFE30 fuses are 1 7/16" long and .25" in diameter. AGU fuses are 1.50" long and 13/32" in diameter. http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/automotive/datasheets/fuses/automotive-aftermarket/glass-fuses/littelfuse_aftermarket_glass.pdf

You may want to do some additional research on the CUCV electrical system http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?60958-CUCV-Alternator-Isolated-Ground-Therory-of-Operation Each battery is charged with it's own alternator.

The pump is a rebuilt unit. I was not aware of the head temperature issue. I appreciate your sharing us with that info. But for now I will just continue to heat it until I get the urge to install another IP in it. Thank you. Karl