Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Hard to say which component went mammary glands up, troubleshooting and repair could be time-intensive but doable for someone with good circuit-tracing and repair skills.
Best bet is replacing the box and temp sensor with the latest/bestest unit, often available in the $400-$500 range. Buy...
I've been doing a ton of work on a buddies truck he bought not running. All his glow plugs were shot, most of them missing part of the tip. Before I replaced all of them, I tested the output of the EESS. It puts out full voltage during the wait light and about 5 volts for 30 seconds or so. This...
Thanks. Not really from that but my "main" hobby of stand up jet skis. What do the three have in common? All relatively small markets with high prices on everything. I've come to learn almost all bearings, seals and o-rings are off the shelf items. The other day I saw 2 "specialty" o-rings for...
My wiper blades were disintegrating so I went and picked these up from Autozone. Unfortunately they only have the cheapies in 11" but they're probably still better than the military ones. After I pulled them off, I noticed they were branded Anco. So I did some digging and these look to be the...
I’m aware that antifreeze raises the boiling point. I wasn’t arguing that it didn’t. But water alone under pressure in the radiator raises the boiling point enough by itself. I think letting the coolant get over 240* alone would cause bigger issues than a little coolant loss. I would never let...
Not trying to argue with you but this is just from my own research. The pressure of the cooling system raises the boiling point by itself above 240* which hopefully my truck will never see anyway. With straight water and 12psi (believe the rad cap is 16 psi) the boiling point is 242*. At 33%...
I wired my winch using 2 gauge pos / neg all the way back to the battery. The badland 12k winch I used came with a circuit breaker that I wired on the positive side. If you’re using a 12v winch you’ll need to wire it to one of the batteries and get a battery balancer.
Sent from my iPhone...
Did some work on the cooling system. Flushed it 3 years ago and the coolant was already rusty so I decided to flush it again and replace most the cooling lines and thermostat. Looked at humvee thermostats, $40+, give me a break. Shopped around for regular parts without the niche price gouging...
It’s the PCB box under the dash telling the glow plugs to cycle on and off. It’s like that by design but I’m not sure why it does it. No other diesel I’ve been around has this “feature”. It just seems to waste more life of the glow plugs imo.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes it worked fine. I just put a small screw in the end of the vent line. The old pump was completely shot and wouldn’t pump any fuel. New one worked great for roughly 20 bucks.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I used something similar on a truck I was selling. I found out later you can get a pump for a early H1 which has the vent nipple for roughly the same price at auto parts stores. It might not be quite as commonly in stock but not that hard at all to come by. If you really want a deal I’d find one...
I have heard that as well. However, I have always soldered my connections in all my wiring jobs, automotive included. Stereos, large cables such as this, splicing harnesses etc. I have yet to have one fail in any way. Yes the connection can break if flexed back and forth repeatedly but so can...
This is true. Would be a good idea to upgrade to 10k or 12k brakes and half shafts to go along with your Cummins. Also configure a 12 volt power source and add a trailer brake controller. Then you'll have the power and the braking to match.
The short answer is it can. The military rating is so low because it is a off road rating where the truck may also be loaded down with whatever. Officially the H1 was rated around 7-8k which is mechanically identical to a hmmwv only heavier as a wagon. That figure still seems low to me. It could...
Made and installed a grounding harness while I had the dog house off. I've never had any of the electrical gremlins associated with poor grounding but I did it anyway with all the hype surrounding grounding issues. Used 8 gauge welding wire off amazon. Crimped and soldered all the lugs with...
Appreciate all the compliments guys. Got it basically done last weekend. Installed the cannon plug, loomed and ran the wires to the battery box. Installed a relay and ran the power to my 12v fuse panel from my radio project. Added another switch to my radio box and also hard mounted the winch...
Can’t agree more. 60 amps at 24 volts is the same as 120 amps at 12 volts. That’s about what standard half ton trucks have with all the heated seats and other electronics humvees don’t have. Even turning on all the stock electrical (lights, heater, wipers) can’t be more than a third of that at...
Picked up a NOS airlift bumper several months back and finally got around to getting it installed. The bumper was reasonably priced ($150) which is only slightly more than the tube of steel it is made of. However, the brackets to mount it are going for crazy money now. So I decided to make my...