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Sounds like you are in pretty good shape. One thing you can also check just for more knowledge is to measure the top of the piston Dia. as well. No idea on the DN4M pistons, but many other pistons have a slight taper to the piston, smaller on top, larger at the skirt, only by a few thousands...

Took me a second to figure that one out.... Guess the stencil guy was even slower than me!

Wow, maybe that was their first Proto-A development sample.... Someone had trouble reading the little metal stamps apparently...;)

When you refer to C-Clips on the liquid level sender I believe you are talking about the J-shaped dual float assembly for the aux fuel pump and no fuel light, not the fuel gage sender. The clips are in grooves and just keep the floats within their operational area, no adjustment can be made on...

Metering pump nipple ( fuel inlet hose ) touching the pushrod tube is normally the correct positioning. Apparently moving them too far clockwise causes all sorts of issues in addition to incorrect fuel delivery and trouble shutting down!

It probably would be a good idea to pull the manifold and / or the heaters to verify none of them melted and dropped any fragments in the manifold. I think I would start by looking at the K18 solenoid, my money says it got stuck in the on position. I believe the K18 is energized when cranking...

On the injectors you can remove them, open them up and clean or replace the nozzles and pintles but that's about it. The pressure is adjusted using tiny shims under the springs and you need a pop tester, so not the easiest job. To disassemble just unscrew the 12pt. cap on the end. Keep track of...

I agree, verify barb distance from push rod tubes is about equal first. When taking the temps it is very difficult to get accurate measurements because the fan tends to cool the front of the engine much faster than the back cylinder, which is also what your temp readings are showing. Try...

I've towed many of them long distances with no issues, but I would still suggest bringing your tilt trailer, just to be safe. If you decide to flat tow, also be aware that depending on your hitch set-up, the safety chains will probably come up a few inches short of reaching, so bring a chain...

For my own sanity.... not being very electrically inclined, IF ( as described in post #11 ) Valence had no 240V loads and decided that he wanted full rated output from his 803A and put it into 120V only mode, with all the load on L3, wouldn't he have 104A on L3 and not 52A? I assume you mean...

Yes, the Fram C1125Pl and CH6PL are exact fit with the correct gaskets. As for filter adapters you may want to look at my drop in spin on filter kit. I had them in the classifieds a long time ago, but never kept it updated. but check here...

If you can't find anyone local, we should be able to get you fixed up by discussing it here. I remember your previous post, but was a little confused as to what you had for a sender and gage and what exactly you found when you tested it out of the tank. Maybe we can revisit your posts and get...

That's the aluminum trailer, very nice trailers. You can probably sell the trailer for $1000 or so. I've sold several sets of tires for $500 a pair, then put smaller 8 on 6.5" lug wheels on the trailers to lower the pintle and sold the trailer for $800 - $1000 extra when selling a generator on it.

Not sure what you have for a hone, but I have used this successfully. Lisle 15000 micrometer head cylinder hone...

Yea! $750 is probably way less than many guys are paying just in auction Fees lately! Between buyers fees, credit card fees.... taxes.... shipping....

Does that 803 also have non-standard auxiliary wiring going to the gages and is your data plug sitting inside the control box wrapped in bubble wrap, with a remote monitoring plug in place of the data port? If so, I don't think you can operate the machine without the "Jumper" cap screwed into...

Only other thing I could imagine is if the generator was not assembled correctly originally, like if the endcap and stator or stator and bellhousing weren't interlocked correctly ( where you have the lip that centers the stator ) causing everything to sit crooked ?

Gettin' it!

If the bearing is BAD you will know right away. If you don't feel any movement between the rod and crank then the bearing is not the cause of your compression issue, but it can still be worn, just not destroyed! When the machine shop pulls it apart to hone the cylinder they will be able to...

Looks like the subsequent posts have you moving in the right direction. I'll throw Uniquify's post into this thread too.... for future searchers to find metering pump pictures more easily! https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-803a-motor-locking-up-at-0-and-180deg.192351/page-2#post-2259257