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Correct. On an 803 you would use an 8.5" sender ( 8" will also work ) BUT, the float will be very close to the ledge inside the tank and could bind. On 803's I always install as "bumper" to keep the float away from the ledge. At first I used a rubber donut, but soon realized it could degrade...

I'm sure everyone has their own opinion on antifreeze..... and there are high performance antifreeze solutions available, but for me good old Green Prestone has always treated me well. It's available everywhere and priced reasonably. And yes, your 803's radiator is soldered brass. I wouldn't go...

Might also want to look into some of the name brand diesel conditioners as well, but typically I toss about a pint per 5gl of ATF into my fuel and have recently started adding 2 stroke oil and Diesel 911 as well. So I'm at like 3oz / gl on the ATF and I probably throw in another 1-2 oz / gl of 2...

Well, unfortunately that pretty much seals the deal! The plunger is stuck in the body AND the plunger guide ( shear pin like safety mechanism ) has split open. There's really only 1 solution. The pump has to come back out, get cleaned and replace the plunger guide. This is the 2nd failure I...

Yes, a 1990 should be Ambac. Easiest way to identify is to look for the ( absence of ) flat head screw on the underside of the pump. Pump on left with the screw is Bosch PSU and pump on right without screw is Ambac M50

Ok John, next thing I would to is: Remove the 1" cap in the center of the IP ( #2) Remove the 5/8" 12 point delivery valve holder #15 under the 1" cap. the sealing gasket #16 will stay on the holder.( careful not to drop the spring #3 under the holder ) use needle nose pliers to remove...

Like Chainbreaker said, it is critical that you check the IP before cranking it over, although if it was frozen, turning by hand may have already damaged the plunger guide. Check to make sure the linkage lever on the IP moves freely once you get the fuel solenoid plunger out of the way. If it...

If I recall correctly John, you had the machine running good about 6+ months ago, but then let it sit, which is when the problems began? I am curious if the plunger in the injection pump has gotten stuck in the outward position ( a common problem when these machines sit for extended periods ) 6...

Lots of guys here use Deoxit contact cleaner, available at Amazon. Your local parts stores will probably have CRC contact cleaner in stock, which is also a good choice. S1 has a bunch of holes around the back side. Spray the cleaner inside, let sit, spray more and exercise the heck out of the...

Out of curiosity have you tried unplugging the main fuel pump, to see if the pump itself is causing a voltage issue? I think you may want to try to find the source of the problem by progressively removing items from the circuit until the issue stops.

I think you may have a slightly different issue with the governor / rack assembly. Your prognosis is good, but if I recall, the springs on the rack only provide OPENING force. To close down the fuel pumps the connection is a lever without springs. Look in the attached picture and my recollection...

Have you load tested the machine yet? It definitely sounds like either the internal rack is not moving correctly ( unlikely due to the way the linkage works ) Or the pump pins are either not in the rack's slots correctly, or not adjusted correctly. Are the fuel inlet lines on all your pumps...

Not to side track you away from the solenoid voltage issue, but if you wire the solenoid up ( or even remove it ) and it still won't even smoke out the pipe there are other things going on. Couple questions are: Do you hear the loud click of the glow plug solenoid when you turn S1 to the left...

Correct, group 24 fits pretty good. The originals were 6TL which were essentially a cube rather than a rectangle. You can still get them from several places but it will be a special order and they can be pricey. Although my commercial price at O-Riley's was about $200 last time I checked, so not...

Ah, ok sorry about that. I missed the damaged G17 and thought you were replacing it because you thought it was clogged/dirty. Now I see the light!

Ok, so when you test the 2 connections on the solenoid itself you are getting continuity, meaning the coil in the solenoid is good, which you also confirmed by testing the solenoid with 24V. Testing the wires I would expect you should get a tone ( continuity ) when testing from battery negative...

Bet you can almost smell VICTORY.... and it smells like Diesel!

Hey John, I assume you are finding that your solenoid doesn't pull in when you crank it? It will not pull up until you begin cranking, then it will hold there as long as the machine fires up, otherwise it will close down after several seconds. Also, if you have a break in the circuit for the...

I've got to show my son that grapple! He took an old 425 last year and outfitted it with an LPW2 engine. Converted it to 24V and has more lights and flashers on it than most emergency vehicles! He made forks, a weight block and a 2 stage trailer hitch for the 3 point, then he made a hydraulic...

I'm telling you... just backflush your old G-17. There's nothing in it besides a screen.... it just keeps large solids out of the pump.