Search results

I'm not real familiar with the sheet metal on the 806B but when dealing with broken hardware where you can't access the back side to use a nut and bolt I have often times used knurled rivnut inserts with great success. It actually works well anywhere you are able to drill a hole big enough to...

One thing you can try as a crude test is to put the piston near the bottom of the bore, finish your movement with a slight up stroke movement, so go slightly past the bottom until the piston starts to rise again then stop. Put fluid on top of the piston, something like diesel, HHO or kerosene...

Wow! That's more than a good running low hour 803 on a trailer was just a few years ago! Oh how times they are-a-changin'..... ;)

So how bad is the cylinder wall on the worst bore? It looks pretty bad in the pictures, but I know pictures of cylinders can be deceiving. Do you have large pitted spots that you can catch with your fingernail, or is it mostly just discolored but fairly smooth? The other thing to check for is...

I would leave it on. That way the acetone will stay in the pump body and do it's magic. As a point of reference, does the gear on the face of the pump spin freely or is it stuck, and is the throttle lever free or binding / stuck?

I agree with replacing the original shim packs. I've never actually gone through the process of measuring to determine the correct shims. I have always either replaced whatever came out originally, or if that was unknown I throw 2 black shims back in and call it good and never had a problem...

Check pages 104 and 105 for info on the 2 different starters. In addition to Googling the PN's you can also use "Mep-002 starter" or "Mep-003 Starter" ( not something I recommend in most cases because it tends to lead you to higher priced parts ) Even Onan DJE starter should work. ( be sure you...

No worries, that's why we're here, to help other members figure out how everything works. Go to the TM section at the top of the page then scroll down to Generators and Electrical, then scroll through the generator TM section until you find the 002 section. ( Top of page 4 ) It will be in there.

If you're talking a bad starter, why fool around converting and modifying things? Sure it can be done, but why? You can get a brand new high torque starter for just over $120.

Ah, Scooby Shep types faster than me! You are correct all the way around! It's a common failure, it's a nightmare to change and it's a mechanical issue inside the switch. Here's what I usually do: Remove the side cover off the AC box. Loosen the nuts on the ends of the rods holding the switch...

I also have a Clean Burn 1800 at our car lot. It works very well but I only use it a little bit since it's not my primary shop location. At my shop at home I'm using an oil fired Crown boiler with a Carlin burner to heat a radiant floor system. After Initial thoughts of buying another used Clean...

FYI, I had the same issue a year or 2 ago. Threw in one of Kurt's controllers ( and after a little help from Kurt ) problem solved. I would suggest verifying the adjustment on the control rods per the TM instructions first. If they are all correct, replace the controller.

Nice update... I almost soiled myself when I saw the hours and price of your Mep-803A #1 ! Was that auction of private party sale?

If you want OEM line look on ebay for 3.5mm diesel return hose. Get enough to replace the whole thing all the way back to the tank.

Easiest way is to either remove one of the wires from the fuel solenoid that pushes down on the IP linkage / lever.

Crypto Mining eh.? Those solar panels powering you computer fans I presume!

These days due to the rising cost of an IP Its best to just remove the pump. It will tolerate about ZERO amount of rotation if its frozen. OR, IF you have an Ambac M50 pump you could remove the fuel line from the filter assy. raise it up above the level of the IP and fill it with acetone...

Ok, "PC" is the timing mark you use to align the engine with to install and time the IP. PC stands for Port Closing and is marked on the flywheel and can be seen through the round hole where the timing pointer is, but don't worry about that just yet. Remove the IP and clamp the mounting flange...

Best thing about this forum is that the the word "Bother" was removed from pretty much everyone's vocabulary the day they joined. No matter the time, the problem, whatever.... someone is always right there to lend a hand, give advice, anything they can offer up to help complete strangers! It's...

Might be worthwhile to just remove the IP to be sure, while working on the pistons. I know you can't put it at "PC" mark beforehand, but it's easy to retime it later, if the IP has to be removed without setting it at PC first.