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Yup, probably should get the injectors out so you can get the mystery oil into the cylinders and start soaking. It is possible to get it in through the exhaust valves too as a last resort. Worst case you end up pulling the heads, but that honestly is very simple and head gaskets are available...

It sounds like you plan to take the Aux. fuel pump and remove the solenoid and use it in place of the primary pumps? If so, that will be fine. The 2 primaries are for redundancy, you only need 1 to make the machine run. I often tell people to unplug one of their primary pumps to "save it for...

Yes. 5.5" is the correct length for an 802. a 5" will work, but fuel level will be off a tad. Gage will say empty when you have like 1/8 or less left, not a big deal either way.

Jimmy, where are you at with this machine as of now? Have you gotten the gage wires figured out, or do you still need help? Also, have you tested the sending unit in the tank? I can almost guarantee your sending unit is bad. I've seen it a dozen times. It's easy to test, just disconnect the...

Humm... pretty odd for BOTH injectors on the same head ( 2 cylinders ) to both go bad at the same time. The no-power issue is also most likely not related to the engine noise. First, to confirm the lack of fire in front 2 cylinders, start it up and feel for warmth from that exhaust pipe. If one...

Here is one place I have purchased from in the past. https://www.fisheriessupply.com/wema-usa-sss-ssl-flanged-fuel-water-tank-sensor For an 802A you need a 5.5" long sender. Recently I have found them much cheaper on ebay ( $25 ) but the problem is they don't offer a 140mm ( 5 1/2" ) sender...

Ah, I see! I watched the video during a meeting, without sound... ( I was trying to 1/2 pay attention to the meeting! ) So I didn't realize you were switching the lights off! The flickering towards the end of the video seems more indictive of a failing voltage regulator. You will need to watch...

Woa! that flickering at 1:15 is no alternator voltage fluctuation! it's more like a total loss of voltage, the lights go virtually OFF completely. There's no reason that should be happening with the batteries and alternator in tact. Does everything else DC related sound ok when that happened...

The bent pushrod is exactly what you get when lifters pump up. Not only do you loose compression from the lifters holding the valves open but the valves will just about tough the top of the piston. Luckily the valves are perfectly flat with the piston so you usually tweak the pushrod but don't...

You are correct with regards to the relief valve pumping up the lifters when it sticks. You can try Mayi Diesel or ebay or search on line for a replacement. It is probably also available from Cummins on line. Look in the parts TM for the PN, or look on line for it. Gaskets are also readily...

That looks like a circuit breaker, not a fuse. Is it tripped by chance? If not I would test the alternator. I have about Zero experience with the 805B specifically, but it appears to utilize a 1 wire alternator with internal regulator. That means you should see battery voltage at the + post on...

I get them on ebay. You can find them on Amazon as well. Just search 12V 18Ah or better, but a tad more money is 12V 21Ah and the best are 12V 22Ah.

Next thing I would do is pull the other metering pump and try the same test to see if the rack is hanging up due to an issue with the other metering pump. It is advised to reinstall the first pump before you remove the 2nd, just so the rack stays in position, but honestly I have always taken all...

I would double check your charging system. If the machine will not stay running on its own you must not be getting enough amperage out of the charging system to keep the fuel pumps, solenoid, etc. running. Also sounds like possibly 1 bad battery, but I think you also have a charging issue. Maybe...

To purchase filters you can use www.fleetfilter.com or I also use www.rockauto.com Buy in bulk and stock up so you cut down the shipping cost / filter!

I would definitely say the module as well. The issue is not that you only have 23.xV , the pump will definitely still run on 23V but if you put a load on that 23v line you will find it drops to probably around 6V, which will not run the pump. It's the module causing you to not have voltage once...

I think maybe some additional cold weather testing might fit the bill here... The thermostat should do a decent job of maintaining engine coolant temp, within reason, but maybe the wind and air drawn in by the fan is contributing to cooling down the water separator and other fuel system...

If you want to verify the fuel solenoid you can untie the safety wire ( assuming it's there ) that holds the lever on the side of the IP in the counter clockwise position. Shut the machine off and throw the lever to the right to manually shut off the IP. If that kills the machine immediately...

Definitely test your sending unit. A dead spot in the sender will also peg the gage all the way up. The dead spots can also be intermittent, so check closely. Make sure you disconnect the sense wire from that gage before testing it otherwise you will get an incorrect reading. I would just...

Makes sense. At the temps you are talking about it looks like most of the common anti-gel additives ( including howes ) are questionable at best, despite their advertisements of -65F With Diesel 911 being a NO-GO at as little as -20F, which is right where you are at. I'm no diesel expert but...