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I think it's time to find a new mechanic with some patience and common ingenuity. They are not that hard to modify a fix as long as the original string/cable is not broken.

Looks like a great project. I wonder if that could be the true mileage on the odometer. The photo of the fuel and brake pedals show very little wear so you may have an original underused low mileage gem. The antenna bracket mount in the rear tells me it's a 83 or 84 truck. To bad that the PO did...

Check that the switch wire from the switch to the injection pump is not compromised/broken. Not sure why a new switch would stop working to begin with. it should be normally "closed" when cold and continuously keeping power to the idle advance in till the engine warms up. once it warms up it...

Your fast idle solenoid working?

I don't think the Canadians are sitting any higher.

I have purchased and installed your kit last year after doing a lot of reading and research and while replacing cracked heads on one of my rides. No problems as of yet nor am I expecting any. I have not noticed a "Huge increase in HP" Nor a "Increase in fuel mileage" or "Faster off the line"...

Welcome aboard from 4 hours west of you. You will find a trove of information on this site.

New old stock are available. 6.2 Liter GM Diesel Cylinder Head for HMMWV and CUCV equipped with 6.2 Liter Diesel Engine (easternsurplus.net)

That's great. When are we going to see the Grinch again?

Yes, there should be a raised plate that the bracket mounts to. If not, just mount the bracket to the floor pan with short self tapping screws.

I see from the first photo your glass man is due for a haircut and shave. By the way, glad to see your working on my next ride.

Rick; Your poetry never ceased to amaze me

If your talking about the dash mounted voltmeter I believe it's grounded through the mounting clamp.

I think the best thing would be to "NOT" run it in the winter salt. But if you need to you should get it oiled by a Krown dealer. I did both my CUCVs and I am very happy. The oil spray will migrate into areas as time goes on and is actually great for all your electrical connections. About...

Trailer looks great. One suggestion to help keep your new "yet to be had" cover from tearing. Buy some black foam pipe insulation and install over the conduit supports. It will be nice and soft to help prevent wear through especially at the fittings.

But if left "as is" to drip it acts as a "Poor Man's rustproofing" when driving down the road. I noticed my oil/fuel leak would leave small oil stains on the rear bumper and tailgate surfaces after a short drive. It also kept the weeds from growing wherever I parked.

I would have bet the farm on a rear seal leaking on my M1009 a few years back. Turned out to be a cracked injector line at the injection pump that ran fuel down the valley and mixed with the oil buildup like cucvrus mentioned.

Nice stories; alcohol & 2 girls is always an interesting mix. But, I think I will keep my stock glow plug system as is; it gets my engine started just fine "without the alcohol". Your build though is amazing and you know your s--t. Keep up the good work.

What are your plans to control the operation of your glow plug system?

If your fuel gelled/waxed up when you pulled out of the driveway at 11* it would not have started a second time until that fuel was warmed back up or additives were mixed in. I think you most likely had air in the lines.