Search results

It says on the can you pictured in post 32 "gloss black". Never trust a "Paint Guy". Looking good though. Nice to see another one being saved.

I thought that stock shoes on a cucv were 31" x 10.5" x 15". Am I missing something?

I will probably go with the Ford pod replacement if I can find one.

You got me nervous Rick so I ordered one from Amazon to keep as a spare for my trucks. A few dollars more that you paid but it said only 2 left "now only 1 left".

Very likely you will not get fuel gelling at 11* F while trying to start it cold. Your more likely to experience the gelling issue around 0*F or lower when your burning uncut fuel.

Link is working now

https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1984/chevrolet/c30/fuel_delivery/fuel_pump.html

$22.18 Plus shipping on Parts Geek. They have plenty in stock and have several brands to choose from.

Try to hot wire the brake light switch before you purchase a new one. Could be just a"bad new switch". How did you get the LED tail lights to work with the flasher? Maybe that could be your issue?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9D1SW/?tag=jhdiesel-20 https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/acdelco,10154649,cold+advance+solenoid+connector,1000346

Post # 84 request still stands and post # 85 reminder of your response. I'll head down next week to pick it up.:)

So what purpose do the rusty nails serve? :unsure:

I doubt while pushing a snow plow you will ever twist your M1009 suspension as much as cucvrus did in Rausch Creek . You won't have the clearance with a plow frame mounted. I have had to hand shovel out my plow trucks many a times because of just minor "miscalculations" of terrain under the...

Not uncommon for the glow plugs to fail in rapid succession. If one goes down the power will increase to the others and burn them out as well. Its known as "The cascade effect"

You have yourself a real golden gem. Looks all original, please if you can try to keep it that way.

I think you should replace the rusted and rotted fuel lines first. That's probably the source of your problems.

The new sensors come with a thread sealant already applied "See photo". As far as your wires are concerned, the sensor acts as a switch. 12 volt in one side and when cold it stays energised "normally closed circuit". As the engine warms up it opens the circuit/switch preventing 12 volt power...

Does it puff any smoke when it skips or surges? It sounds fuel related. Bad/sticky injector? Bad injection pump? Other than the surging the engine sounds strong and I would lean towards a bad/sticky injector. Another thought, Try unplugging the cold advance wire when its warm and idling. Maybe...

Master switch off on the bottom of the battery box?

I think you may have to invest in a ladder