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thanks for the additional input. i have, in 15 years, never run into a problem. no matter what i do or where i drive. but the potential is there and we should be prepared if on trips especially. tom

this is not a state thing, it is federal. all deuces that still have 3 axles are included and you are required by law to get the IFTA decal. is it enforced? not really, but it applys to all states and all trucks reguardless of how you have it taged. (unless it is a camper) tom

in regards to the fuel decal. it is required in ALL states as far as i can find. exempt are pickup trucks with attached campers. also rv's and the like. see: http://www.dor.state.nc.us/publications/IFTAComplianceOct2001.pdf this seems to be the same wording in all states as far as i see. is a...

at the worst case, you will have to remove the 2 bolts for the front motor mount and move the engine assy over to the right. not a big deal really. tom

it is possible for the booster pump seal to dump 1 quart per minute if it is really bad. you do the math. tom

for the booster pump the engine does not have to be running. if you are in doubt, just replace the seal, about $6 for the HH 'o' rings, it does. with cold weather here, the shaft seal is much more likely to leak. having the FDC bypassed means NO lines to it at all. tom

chuck, well i have an old bosch tester and will have to try gasoline etc. where are you in maryland? tom

patrick, i didn't realize you had been so wild, back when. tom

chuck, have you ever seen a MF injector on a test pump? i have a tester and they seem to put out the same mist that other injectors do. just wondering, injectors in cat and cummins spray almost sideways across the piston top while the MF sprays down into the cup. i wonder if that fact alone is...

of course the manufacturer wants you to replace it! but the question is how often is really required? the unit on my truck was 20 years old when i git it and is not meant to be serviced. it was clean inside and i have not drained either of my tanks in 4 years. there is just nothing in them. now...

So I changed out all the filters and went to bleed the system but I hardly get any pressure at the bleeder. Sometimes a little fuel will dribble but then it stops. when you remove, not open, the bleeder from the filter assy, you will get a fountain of fuel with the tank pump. without this...

and you are better in the long run to use just diesel. while it will burn many other fuels, the fuel lubes and cools the HH . tom

it's a bit of work, but not that much. if i were ever to have a winch again, i would use a hydraulic pump and motor in place of the driveshaft. with a 3way valve, a pressure regulator and a pressure gauge, you would have full control including most important, knowing how hard you were pulling...

when the light comes on, the heater thinks it is hot and burning. the glass rod expands when hot and pushes the switch lever. so if the light is on when cold as in starting, it must need adjusting. since you had the unit (flame detector) out it could easily now need adjusting as it is fairly...

you are dreaming, the rpm and mph do not match at all.

how will pulling the mainshaft help with the clutch? i must have missed something! well, anyway, do this. put some oil on the spline of the input shaft where it goes into the clutch disk. it may help to blow some air on it to move the oil up into the clutch hub. did this start with cold...

put some oil on the splined shaft where it goes into the clutch disk. it is probably just dry and the disk does not move as freely as it could. using the clutch to stall the engine at idle will not hurt the clutch at all. even if you do it for years. tom

since it starts and gets hot, it must be working up to the point of switching to the run mode. since yours has a start and run position, it is an old design, but the flame switch ( a micro switch with a quartz glass rod ) should register the heat and operate the micro switch. if you carefully...

did the heater work before? does it actually start but not switch to run? there can be many problems and you may need the manual for that heater to solve them. tom

that is a safety switch. it is normally closed and opens when the heater temp rises past a set point. you could just bypass it until you find one. you might want to consider replacing it with a newer style as i boubt you will find that one. grainger sells limit switches in the newer round style...