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One of the early multifuel TM's actually said something along the lines of. If the truck is smoking, dripping, leaking, running eratic or just about anything else. Load to max gross weight and drive 100 miles. Then recheck to see if problem still exist.
These things like to be run hard.
Open or closed knuckle doesn't effect the castor measurement. I have the stock closed knuckle D60 on my M715. When measured by a Hunter Engineering alignment machine, I have 4.5° castor. You didn't state in the first post that you were trying to set up stock axles.
Thanks for posting that Rory. I was mentally composing how to put down the same basic thing you did when I saw that you had done it.
Only good experiences with them for me. I am also 2 hours away if you figure in traffic.
Yep, the injectors are wrong inside. Did you by chance get some of the "marine" injector internals off an online auction site? They are for the shorter 6.5 injectors, not the 6.2 injectors. Just a little bit of size difference gives you that leak and noise.
The CDR is supposed to be hooked up before the filter.
There are several versions of the CDR. 2 versions that bolted on somewhere and then 2 versions that fit in the valve cover on the 1988 and newer engines. The valve cover versions are turbo and non turbo. There is a difference.
There...
The 4L80E is controlled by a Transmission Control Module.
Full range of travel by the shift lever on the column can't be used unless the shift rod from the column to the transmission is lengthened a bit and maybe bent a bit. The arm on the 4L80E will have to be swapped with the arm originally...
Do the vent test procedures posted above. If it still happens and if running with the tank cap off causes you to drive ok and then start loosing power and top speed progressively. Use a pair of pliers to pull the red clamp up off the hose on the radiator end of the IP. Pull the hose off the...
Good.
Accessories turned by the grooves in the serpentine belt with grooved pulleys turn crank shaft direction. Those turned by the smooth side of the belt with smooth pulleys are counter rotating.
I like Permatex Number 2 gasket maker for those plugs. The white tube with the really sticky black goo. Being NPT, they shouldn't need sealant, but as pointed out sometimes they do. I have never used it on my fuel tanks though. Just the gear oil plugs.
Have you pulled the return check valve from the top of the IP to see if the glass ball is covered in little bits of black things?
It sounds like you have a fuel system vent issue, however. It could also be an IP issue.
Yes Joe, that is the manual for the digital version.
Amazingly enough, the post office actually delivered things early yesterday. The analog 480 and the 160 luminosity probe both showed up yesterday afternoon. The power leads were without insulation. Once I replaced that. I put in the probe...
The drive went great over there. It attacked the hills with more power than before and did great running around town with Colton. But, since I had retarded the timing since the initial test drive I wrote about above. I didn't have the power I had on that one drive.
Then coming home in 93°...
You might find one that hasn't been exposed to engine heat for the past 30 years and isn't ready to crack as soon as you look at it wrong. Chances are low however. If you want to stay all original, then you may go through a few until you find one that holds coolant. JBWeld does fix the...
I went through the exact same thing last month on RED Andy. Under dash relay click, nothing under the hood. Put a meter on the purple wire at the solenoid and power was getting to it. Pull the starter, test it and all good. Put it back on and it worked. Once. Then back to under dash click...
Just remember 4.25-4.8 mpg no matter how you drive with the OA331. At least that has been my experience. Something to keep in mind before you throw the high bid.
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