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Hi Alex, yes I was able to open your files. First off, hide those cans of starting fluid! If Guy sees them he will ream you an new one! ;) Seriously though.... don't use starting fluid on that machine. If you have to use anything, use WD-40 or carb clean, anything less volitile than ether...

It could also be as simple as a metering pump adjustment problem too. When running under no load the internal fuel rack just barely opens the metering pumps. All 4 pumps need to be synchronized or you will be getting inconsistent fuel from 1 cyl to the next. Before swapping out a pump I think we...

Yup, that should be correct. Just fire it up and verify your voltage gage is reading 240ish.

Yes, you want to be in 120 / 240V mode which should be flat down and AM/VM switch set on the single phase L1 L3 position approximately 3:00 on the switch.

I would seriously try loosening the bolts and jiggling the switch , working to the right and attempt to get it so the flat is down. Looks like you already used a "ViceGrip" style knob! I have a spare switch I can sell you BUT believe me, swapping out that switch is no small task!

I believe you are in 208 3 phase. You can verify you setting AM/VM switch to the 3 phase 208 setting and see if gage reads 208 or use a DMM and see if you have power on L2. If you go from L2 to either L1 or L3 you should get around 208 on your AC volt setting.

I believe you are most likely correct in your assumption about the injector, you probably have an injector stuck open, but need more investigation. By "adjust the injector" I bet you are talking about the metering pump on the side of the motor with the rubber lines going in and steel lines out...

I can check one and see where the flat corresponds to. It may actually be in the correct place for 120/240. If so, leave it and be done with it, but I will check position later today.

Are you able to throw around 50% load on it and see if it dies quicker or slower? I still recommend testing fuel pressure when it acts up. Any smoke when it starts to act up? Another test could be to leave radiator cap loose and run it. I'm curious if you have a head gasket starting to leak...

Are you testing under a load or no load?

I have seen my fair share of primary pumps ( both the square and round ) go bad. Perfect at full load 1 day, then dies after a short time the next day. Failure mode is typically that the machine will start and run but will bog down and die over time. Run time seems directly related to the amount...

The small filter is an Airtex G-17 strainer. Think last time I bought was from Rock Auto.com, I also bought from Summit racing before.

FYI, CB's last paragraph above has worked for me 1/2 dozen times minimum! The secret is to loosen the hardware inside and just be patient, rock the switch back and forth repeatedly and all of a sudden it will switch as normal. This is assuming forcing it hasn't damaged anything, but if you were...

Guess it all depends how your outlets are wired, but most likely each outlet is powered off a different leg. If you have 1 motor on each outlet you are probably good, but 2 motors on the same outlet means you are loading only 1 leg. Either way the 120V powering L3 only is a better choice for...

So, just like Kurt explained, the first thing I would do is exercise and clean both of the switches ( well... second thing after getting the set grounded properly ) Also, are you sure your motor loads are fairly balanced between L1 and L3? Another thing I would try is setting the machine to...

Are they 120V single phase motors? How do you have the generator AC select switch set? are you in 120 / 240V mode, switch behind the control panel in the right hand position? And are you hooked up to L1 L3 and L0? Or are you running in 120V only mode with wires on L3 L0 and ground with the AC...

I also have both the parts ( standard bore ) you need as well as complete rebuilt engines. Just let us know what you find / decide once you tear into it. You can also get new ( pistons and rings ) from Mayi Diesel on-line, also available oversized if you have to over-hone the block. If it's...

I'd be curious if your glow plugs are actually heating and if the injectors are working correctly That machine will never fire up even on a mildly cool day without the glow plugs ( intake heaters alone will not cut it ) You might need to preheat for 30 seconds, but should also verify the glow...

Yes they definitely are Priceless! I purchased a 003A parts motor last year ( I wanted the IP out of it ) and the failure point was smashed up gears, with the crank gear being split open at one of the threaded puller holes. The timing cover was also cracked as a result of the exploding gears...

FYI, sent you a text earlier today to see if we can make arrangements to look at your machine. Let me know if you didn't receive it.