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Sorry... Not S1, I meant S5, the circuit interupt switch. As mentioned above, if you hold S5 up do you get power and a green light on DS7 indicator light? If yes, then your K1 and wiring are good but either the S5 ( possibly it's jumper diode also ) is bad, or the overload relay is bad.

I would follow the TM and test the control wires going to K1 from S1. The TM explains how to ( with the gen off ) run a temporary power and ground to activate and test K1. If K1 tests good, check for power and ground to trigger K1. It's a very simple circuit to test. If that fails, check proper...

Once you have it installed, I would hook up the fuel line and leave the returns disconnected for now. fill the day tank and let it drain into the pump housing to push out most of the air and fill up the pump. With the returns connected it can be had to get fuel to drain into the pump body...

Don't pull the shaft out, just put the 2 new seals on the shaft. make sure they are oriented correctly. Then grease them up good like Guy mentioned. Then slowly slide the pump over the shaft. You will probably need to use a small pick or screwdriver to get the first seal started into the pump...

Yes, that copper plated washer behind the well nut is what I cut the notch in. Loosening the tank brackets will allow you to slide the tank over a little to help center the washer in the opening. You can still change it even with it off-center, but it's easier if you can get it more centered so...

What is happening when it's cranking? is it smoking at all? if so what color? How does it sound while cranking, does it sound like its free spinning, or do you get the typical cyclical sound of valves opening and compression etc... If it sounds like it is just free spinning you may have valves...

If you have trouble with the well nut spinning as you tighten it, I always file a small notch in the outer edge of the large copper colored washer, then you can use a screwdriver to hold it from spinning....

Either that or he's using a cheap DMM? I once saw 400+ Hz on a cheap Chinese gen but it was due to dirty power and using a DMM. I thought the OP meant he was reading it off the Hz gage, which blew my mind on an 806! What are you actually seeing on the HZ gage?

Well, the 12,000 rpm thing was a joke, but you guys lost me somehow.... This is an 806a running at 450Hz? what am I missing? Thought the 806a was a 60Hz machine and the 816a designation was 400Hz.? This is an 806a running at 400+Hz? Have the earth's magnetic poles flipped?? What...

I'm assuming this is an MEP-816A, not an 806A as stated in the title.... Since an 806 would spill it's internals long before 12,000 RPM! rofl

Is your desk in need of a new paperweight?? Can't really think of much else to do with it! rofl

You are 100% correct Guy! Externally the look quite similar, but internally about the only parts that are the same are the delivery valve and holder pieces, the throttle control assembly ,the actual timing buttons and a couple gaskets. Most of the other parts are not interchangeable including...

If it runs... Your good... If not, we fix it... , and then you're good.... no big deal... (y)

Well, congrats... we will be waiting for updates on how you make out! As for your wife, typically they nag and complain up until about 5 minutes after the next power outage begins. At that point the complaints are often replaced with sounds of joy because your lights are on but the rest of the...

Lately it seem that long term storage ( even with proper additives ) may have suffered some, but bulk fuel storage is not as big of an issue as is machine storage. Seems today's fuels tend to gum and varnish much faster than days past, when left long term in the small spaces within IP's etc...

For $20 I can't pass it up! Thanks for the info.

I totally agree with Jamawieb. I have had lots of machines with double digit hours and others with 4000+ and I have to agree that in my opinion, 800-1500 hrs. was more of the sweet spot for me. I think they ran better ( due to being broken in ) and they tended to have less problems than the 10...

All you can do is keep your eyes open and occasionally you will find one that goes somewhat reasonable, but these days there are a lot of buyers paying more at auction ( before fees ) than I typically was selling my tested, serviced and guaranteed machines for. So at this point, I have all but...

Sweet deal! 58A and still going strong... looks like you're back in the winner's seat!

Since the machine seems to handle a full load when applied in steps, I'm not convinced you have a fuel injector issue. Sounds more like a governor adjustment issue or maybe sticky metering pump arms causing slow governor response. Out of curiosity, I would throw the same load on it, let it bog...