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A bit late now if you already wiped it down with Penetrol, but the best thing I have found ( that lasts ) for renewing faded paint is to simply spray the machine with satin / matt / semi-gloss , whatever you want... Rattle can clear coat. I don't suggest gloss because it looks too shiny and...

Any universal diesel rated fuel pump with like 6-14 PSI will work fine. Don't need a real lot of flow since burn rate is very low, but typical pumps would be about 35 gph at freeflow. For reference I have used airtex E8135 many times with perfect results.

Although your fuel pump is clicking away, your description is a classic sign of a failing fuel pump. Just because they make noise doesn't mean they are good. It just happened to me ( again ) recently. Machine was running great one day, next day my buyer arrived and the machine would bog at...

I believe the shims come in different thicknesses as well. Black is in the .005" range and the green ones are only like .002" maybe less? I've typically seen 1 to 3 shims under the dozens of pumps I've removed. I have also put together a dozen or more motors without knowing what shims came out...

I should probably check the schematic before making this statement BUT.... I don't recall the fuel solenoid having anything to do with the starter circuit. The speed switch under the oval shaped cover near the oil filter is the mail culprit if you don't get power to your starter solenoid. It's...

If you decide to go that route, try checking on line or NAPA and see what you can find that is 24V and will seal with the same bevel and copper washer as the original. Be careful with HMMWV glow plugs. There are tons of aftermarket ones floating around that claim to be 24V but are actually 12V...

Yup, it's a hollow brass float. They occasionally get tiny hairline cracks in them and eventually sink. You will have a hard time seeing the crack, but if you clean it with brake cleaner then blow it dry it will be very dull looking. as soon as you tip it around a bit the diesel inside will...

I would say, just to be on the safe side... If you decide to run a bit with the battle short on at lease rig up a mechanical oil pressure gage so you can be sure what you have for pressure. Definitely would suck to come this far that cause a problem while troubleshooting!

Interesting... a little while ago I bought a used 4 cyl. motor ( I wanted the IP ) Out of curiosity I tore it down to see why the motor failed. The oil pump shaft was also sheared off, but the crank gear was also split in half right where the threaded gear puller holes are. I assumed the crank...

Wet Stacking! Absolutely.... you will find that issue all over the place on here mainly with 802/803's. Running at light loads lowers the EGT which causes carbon / unburned fuel buildup in the exhaust system, choking off the exhaust and eventually causing the valves to not seal.... among other...

Seems very odd, but it is sounding like an oil delivery issue. In that system I believe oil flows from the outside of the filter into the core then through the 3/4-16 tube and into the oil filter adapter housing, feeding the switch, the gage and the oil cooler as well as the engine. Check the...

agreed. try jumping the temp switch first. Then if still no start, Jump the oil pressure switch. To remove the oil pump you have to remove both the timing cover and the oil pan, and if I recall correctly you also have to pull off the gear on the crankshaft because the oil pump body is trapped...

Sounds like you are getting fuel to the injectors, if I'm reading correctly. Are you getting any smoke while cranking? I think you need to verify compression as DieselMeister said. If it cranks excessively fast and steady rather than hearing the pulsation of the compression strokes, then I would...

I've never worked on a 1040, but on the 802/803 we all replace bad senders with a stainless marine style magnetic sensor. ( Google WEMA fuel sending unit ) ( tons of threads on here about it as well ) You will have to pull yours out and see if it uses the same standard SAE bolt pattern and check...

IF both switches are set correctly ( 120/240 on the switch inside the control cube and the purple dot shown up above) and you are not reaching 240V on L1-L3 with the adjustment knob all the way up, take a look at your voltage regulator, if there is a 3/16" hole in the front cover, inside that...

On the amount of return fuel on an 802/803, a small drip is normal, don't expect a steady flow as you would see on an 002/003. The end of the metal fuel rail has barely a pin hole in the end , all you will get in the return line is any excess bled off of the injectors. Also, the fuel bung...

Gotcha... well, yank the water pump and see if you have an issue with the impeller. When you reassemble pay attention to the O-rings on the cross over tube. Clean the rust out of the head and interface plate where the O-rings sit and lube the new o rings a little. If you reuse the old o-rings...

If you're mechanically inclined and would do the repairs yourself, why not tear into it and see what's wrong, then go from there? If you find a bad piston etc. that's repairable, you're already half way to completion... if you find a cracked block etc. you are already part way disassembled to...

So after 15 minutes the temp gage is assumingly pinned all the way up? and you start puking antifreeze out the overflow? Are you getting an over temp fault light? I know you mentioned it was hot, but just trying to rule out cylinder pressure getting into the cooling system and over pressurizing...

I personally was pretty turned off by my first 2 attempts at using u-ship. First time a local freight contractor responded , asking if I could take to to a local freight terminal, I responded yes, assuming his price would be much lower. now that he had my contact info then he sent his quote (...