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With your aux tank higher than the gen are you saying the current setup will siphon? ( I would expect YES ) Adding the solenoid will stop that from happening. If you decide to make your machine function as designed, I probably have the parts to do so, solenoid etc. Is all the wiring still in tact?

If the machine has been sitting for over a year without being run ( especially with today's poor quality fuel in it ) there is a very good chance the injection pump is gummed up. Attempting to turn the motor over ( as you apparently already know ) without first ensuring the IP isn't stuck, will...

For that rubber cap, most parts stores sell an assortment kit of thick rubber caps, often in the little red "HELP" packages. Get the thick ones, not the thin vacuum caps. I know O'riley's has them, I have bought them for this exact same issue before. There are 2 of the correct size in the 6 pc...

FYI, I have all my equipment and generator hoses made by WWW.DiscountHydraulichose.com You go on the website, design the lines with whatever fittings and hose you want and it's a $10 flat rate assembly fee for each hose. They ship to your door in 2-3 days. I have found the best bang for the buck...

I'm surprised you have any tongue weight at all with the tank full.... Normally one person can lift the tongue by hand.... barely. Add another 500 lbs. out back and its a miracle you haven't flipped it over backwards!

Wow.... that's one of 3 things... 1) Ingenuity ( working with what you have available.... ) 2) Redneck Redundancy... if the tube fuse fails, lets see if the maxi-fuse blows too, if not there really isn't a problem..... 3) Someone's idea of a good joke for the next guy going in there.... But...

Yup, that all looks correct. The spring in that shot also looks to be in the ballpark. Maybe you should give it a bit of a workout first, then attempt the droop adjustment again. If it has been sitting a while i am a little concerned about maybe having some gum / varnish in the injection pump...

All of the internal ones are -4 ( 1/4" ) but the aux. hookup near the filler neck is a -5 ( 5/16" )

I agree. I think you need to try performing the droop adjustment again. Either raise the spring to stop hunting or lower the spring to reduce the amount it droops down when a load is applied. Keep in mind that as you change the droop setting you will also need to readjust the throttle upon...

Sounds to me like a couple possibilities, both pertaining to the governor and injection pump itself. Start by pushing the fuel shut off solenoid up and out of your way. Does the linkage arm move freely at the Injection Pump? If there is any sticking or binding at all, that is going to cause you...

Hey Jimmy, I do them. I can pop test, adjust, clean or replace nozzles, whatever you need, shoot me a PM and let me know what you want done. Ray.

Doesn't look like anyone answered your question about recoat time, but YES for best adhesion you should topcoat within the 1 week window on the epoxy primer. If you wait longer you will loose some adhesion between primer and top coat, unless you scuff the primer first. Personally I recoat epoxy...

Out of curiosity are you thinking of using this unit as the worlds coolest 28V jump starter, or using the turbine for another project? The project's " Cool" factor is unlimited!

Unbelievable! 4.9 GL/SF/Hr. of rain, that must have been one hell of a scary sight to see. Something like 8"/hour? If we get a 1" / hour storm it's considered heavy rain. 2" is a torrential down pour. 3" is more than we saw during the 100 yr. flood in 2008. 8" / hour??, I can't even imagine...

You're right that parts are sometimes hard to come by but careful research will turn up that there are still a few places where you can get the parts you listed at reasonable prices. For example, I recently needed a #14 timing button... couple places wanted over $100 each, but further digging...

One "Negative" thing I can say about many of the marine gages is that they are quite often set up for 12V operation and require a separate resistor board to allow them to be used in our 24V applications. The boards are not too expensive, maybe $12 or so, but they are about 1/2" wide and 1 1/2"...

I was once considering just welding a triangular ball coupler to the underside of the trailer frame ( sides seem to be a similar angle. Could also add some 4 or 5" C-channel as a spacer to drop the ball even further. This is of course only if you wanted to switch from lunette to a ball...

I can also confirm the kit has the cover gasket, and a bunch of extra stuff you don't need! Depending on what you are doing with your pump, I would also suggest getting the 1 piece governor weight basket ( if you are doing a full pump rebuild ) This eliminates the flex coupler all together...

Ditto.... 803 is easier on your wallet as well.... Still very quiet, easier to repair, proven track record.... and tons of support HERE! 1040... newer, harder to fix, less knowledge due to being fairly new to this forum, higher cost.... AND that troublesome digital control panel which is very...

Correct... Guy, That motor uses a metal gasket, not composite construction. No need for any additional sealers etc. Not that it is standard practice, but in a pinch I have reused the gaskets on those single cyl. Yanmar's several times with perfect success.... for emergency situations.