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So if I'm reading correctly, the machine will take at least 54A by stepping up incrementally without issue, but it's a bit finiky if you dump the load on it too quickly?

On the 003, IF it has been sitting ( which they all have ) a while, cranking these will surely damage the Injection pump at minimum. If it happens to have an American Bosch IP, that damage will be catastrophic and only repairable by replacing the IP. When it comes to the 002 / 003, look for one...

I have to admit, I cheated on the 002/003 card as well... have an AC reconnect box on the shelf and measured the bolt spacing from the back side.... Both Lazy and a cheater on occasion! ;) but more that I figured all 4 screws would probably snap off on me, judging by the rust on the threads....

Hey LITD, I'll send you a text to discuss. I assume you want the dia. of the housing gasket? The WIX 15398 doesn't look right, I think that is just the bolt head gasket... judging by the picture. I have loose fuel canisters and base housings. Best bet is to measure the housing. probably never...

Seems you and I were both typing at the same time.... and seems air pressure was a fail, so the tool better work!

2 other things you can try on the delivery valve... although the tool is already on order.... Take a rubber glove and wrap it around the entire rotor, then use electrical tape or duct tape, wrap it up good and tight. This is to seal off all the holes machined into the rotor. Then if you have a...

Yes, you can twist it and / or tap it out. It's hardened steel... Gotta be just stuck with gum / varnish.

On the delivery valve I don't think you can access it from the other end, but maybe I'm wrong. If you can access it go easy with it, don't want to damage the point on the end. But if the other end was open I would imagine that would defeat the whole function of the rotor and pistons, but maybe...

Yea that screw is very tight. I've used both torx on a ratchet and a small impact wrench. Just be sure to hold it straight so the doesn't try to move sideways on you. I don't recall what the proper name is for that head, but as a last resort you could get the actual bit for it, if you're worried...

Correct, you have them in the right order. Be careful not to drop or loose the dished cups on the top of them, they are just sitting there.... not attached at all. The power piston is currently all the way in, so you could safely grab it with a pair of curved jaw pliers, twist and pull ( after...

In the last picture, left is the Passive one, right is the active power piston. Left has a spring inside, right may not because it operated using hydraulic pressure created by the pump to pus outward on that ball stud to advance the timing as RPM increases.

Out of curiosity is it the "Idler" ( forget what the TM calls the passive one ) side that's stuck, or the power piston / active side? I believe the internal components are slightly different. Sounds like you are finding all sorts of issues! Something tells me the pistons will be stuck in the...

A5 is inside the special relay box correct? I have an 005 here ( that I promised Guy I would measure A5 eventually ) But would need to take a little time to open up the relay box, so I can do it.... just not right away, if anyone else has faster access?? Otherwise I will do it when possible.

For now I would leave the fuel inlet screen as an assembly. I don't think the kit comes with anything other than new o-rings, so just clean it out with spray carb clean and don't disassemble any further just yet, wait until you have the kit. It has a check valve inside it, so make sure it is...

And if the linkage is binding up and holding the metering valve in the closed position you will never get any fuel from it either.

Yea, all those little particles are not helping anything... clean it up, then disassemble. Once you get down to the final part... the pump head and the 2 little piston plungers, if the plungers are stuck in the head, that is the #1 cause of not getting any fuel out of the pump.

For $500 BUY IT! Others have already explained why.... even if you can't fix it for some reason, it's worth way more in parts than that!

A small draw and spark is normal. I believe it's caused by capacitors on the voltage regulator board. The draw should not be continual and should not drain the batteries, it's just a small momentary charge to the capacitors.

Yet another TM ambiguous mistake?? The way I have always done it is set the motor as you did, at 20* Verify marks in the IP window are aligned. Remove the pump. Do not touch or rotate the engine! Rebuild the pump and align the marks when finished rebuilding. Reinstall the IP with the IP marks...

You are in the right spot. Whenever the timing marks in the IP window are aligned you are at the correct spot, not 180* off. The IP turns 1/2 the speed of the motor so you can only be off 180* by looking at the timing mark on the motor only ( in which case the IP marks would be 180* off. With...