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Hi Kurt, The hole pattern on the 002/003 A4 card is 2.660" wide and 2.600 high... not quite a square pattern. The board itself is 3.5" wide and 3.0" high.

On the IP, no other tools needed in my opinion unless you happen to have tamper resistant Penta screws in the top cover or rear pump cover. Since you already had the top off, we know you are good there, but I once had an 005 with tamper resistant Penta ( 5 sided instead of 6 like a hex key )...

You can go with the bushing kit, just in case, but I have never needed to replace the bushing. When doing the rebuild pay very close attention to how things come apart because your pump spins the opposite direction of 95% of the other DB pump applications, so the transfer pump eccentric, the...

Go on youtube and watch a video called "Be the Fuel" Its a great explanation of how these pumps operate.

You want a 24371 rebuild kit and a 29111 weight basket. Warning, the new weight basket does not have a timing mark cut into it, you need to cut or file the mark yourself, using the old basket ring as a guide. Your pump is neither a DB2 nor a DB4. They are simply another one of the many...

The shutdown solenoid presses against the linkage shown in the left side of your photo. That moves the linkage towards the fuel inlet end of the IP, in turn rotating the fuel metering rod and shutting off fuel flow. With the cover removed, if you manually move the fuel shut off lever ( which is...

Are you missing the gage or is yours broken? If its broken, can you read the writing on the face and tell me what the FS current is? ( curious if the gage from a different set would also work, since 002/003 and 802/803 are both the same functionally, I bet the 804 05 and 06 are as well.

Out of curiosity, is your Hz select switch missing? Looks like the alternator fuse is missing as well.

Am I seeing black magic marker on the connectors on the S1 switch? If so, that's an indication that someone has messed with S1 before. might want to verify the correct connections as well as tight screws on all the connections. Test the diodes on the switch jumpers as well.

Any chance of posting a video of the speed fluctuation? First thought is a governor adjustment issue. ( incorrect droop adjustment )

What the??.... Someone slather on some caulking over the t-fittings? Seems like maybe the return lines were too loose and/or swollen up from incompatibility with diesel, and someone tried taking up the space with silicone and zip ties??

This may be a silly question but how did you run it out of fuel? If the low fuel cut-out switch malfunctioning?

I remember seeing one of Chrysler's Turbine cars in a museum somewhere.... I want to say it was at the Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation.

Just an FYI, 99% of the time the reason the LPW4's get stuck is due to water in the cylinders ( down the exhaust ) causing the pistons to get stuck. Many times you can free them up, hone the cylinders ( replace rings if necessary ) and be good to go. A couple times I have had to go .010" over...

Bet my son would yank out the turbine out and put it in his Go-kart or another tractor project the moment my back was turned!

In your case it sounds like you want straight 120V not 240 split into 2 legs as you describe above. I believe there should be a sticker on or near the clear cover over the lugs that tells you where to set the selector switch and where to hook up your wires. I know the 016 is different than most...

What's the military's term for the exact opposite of "Tactical Quiet" ??

Sort of... the input shaft on a stick is a single bearing on the far end of the input shaft, right before where it meets the main shaft, allowing some slight movement of input shaft at the tip where the pilot bearing is. The pilot bearing alone is what keeps the clutch and shaft in perfect...

A ground rod definitely won't hurt! But I thought you still had everything all torn apart? Guess you will be putting in a full day on it tomorrow! Good luck, we'll be awaiting an update.

I would say you're correct about the simpler alignment aspect. Many similar type pieces of equipment are built this way. It definitely simplifies assembly as well as repairs. You would be hard pressed to get any engine and driven unit bolted solidly together if both used bearings on both ends...