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I found the information in the change 2 instructions: Note. ON EQUIPMENT BEARING ORDER NO. 64009-PP-63. SWITCHES S2 AND S3 HAVE BEEN OMITTED. Page 60, paragraph 44, heading. After the heading, add the following note. note. On equipment bearing order No. 64009-PP-62, switches S2 and S3 are...

If the poster was kurt.lesser then yes, they are.

If there are no cutouts in the radius rod what are the clamps clamping?

They do make left twist drill bits that you could use for situations like this. If the snag or bind up they're turning the way you want things moving to unscrew the bolt. Definitely soak it with penetrating oil before you start.

Hmmmmmm, totally missed the H1.

Those of us who have been playing with military vehicles for years know the value of continuous tinkering with them. The first thing you want to do when you get a new vehicle is to inspect the lights and brakes. Don't just be happy your vehicle stops. Take it apart and look for shoes or pads...

Run power comes from the Master Start Switch on 29A and splits into 29B and 29C. 29B goes thru circuit breaker CB2 and supplies power directly to the instrument cluster, the wiper motor, and the Wait to Start LED so if your never seeing any of these things the circuit breaker (which should auto...

Anyone who needs these drawings can send me an email address in a PM and I'll be happy to send them in reply. I digitized my originals probably 20 years ago.

papakb@yahoo.com or just send me a PM thru SS.

I'm looking for a copy of TM 11-5820-398-35 for the PRC-25 that has the alignment for the A9 VFO module that DOES NOT tell you to press S2 and S3 during the alignment. These switches were removed from the radios early on in their production but were never removed from the alignment instructions...

There is an epoxy product out there that behaves like JB Weld and is a whole lot cheaper and comes in larger sizes called PC-7. It has a sister product called PC-11 that is a white, marine grade epoxy that will adhere to glass and will also cure underwater.

Drill the bolt and then use your easy out kit to remove the broken bolt. There's a really good video on You Tube about removing bolts in sunken places. Tractor Supply has the best selection of grade 8 hardware in this area now that Lowes wiped out Orchard Supply. There's also a good video...

An engine is an engine is an engine is an engine. Did you ever consider just taking it to a shop and having them look at it? Just blindfold the tech and lead him to the vehicle. Do not allow him to see the HMMWV or he'll panic and run away screaming. Once you get him into the engine...

Unless you suspect a serious misalignment on the caster and camber you can do a simple toe in adjustment with a piece of string. You do need to assume the rear wheels are set properly. Tape a string to the inside of the right rear tire and wrap it around the back of the tire at the 9 O'clock...

I used a couple SD-51 Schotky diodes I had laying around from my days at Varian.

Here in California I haven't run a front plate on the HMMWV for almost 20 years. Experience has shown me that as long as your driving in a responsible manner with these trucks you don't get pulled over.

From your description it seems like the regulator is at fault. There's a 50 ohm 50 watt resistor that likes to blow out and the regulator electronics itself fails. The resistor is an easy fix but the electronics is potted. The carbon brushes wear and make a carbon mess inside the housing so...

Standard 60 amp Prestolite alternator. The regulator can be easily changed in the truck and typically will run around $60 online. Six screws around the back casting (looks like a sunburst) and it will pop out the back. There is an Oring inside which will cause a little drag on removing it and...

How about a picture of the alternator so we know what we're playing with? It'll make troubleshooting more accurate. Instead of measuring the voltage on the alternator you can read it on pins E & F on the STE/ICE connector.

It's normally closed, not normally open. That way the contacts close as soon as the brake pedal moves. Any NC switch will work as long as it's rated for 5 amps or higher and you can figure out how to mount it. Here's a link to the CPI switch that I used...