Search results

Got the sockets and pins, they look correct. I'll be verifying it soon, once I have time to pull the engine cover off and do some wiring.

I had an issue early on that the bolts were not tightened properly where the half shaft and brake hubs meet. This causes the bolts to gently rub on the brake caliper creating a rolling noise, almost like a bad bearing. Something to check, do you have proper clearance between the brakes and the...

I believe they are for the radio. However if you can remove them without cutting them, you may find a buyer. Seems like people are always looking for the right wiring for things like that.

Use one of the dash lights to trigger a relay. This way the light can only be turned on when the dash lights are on, preventing you from killing your battery.

The number above (7N7782) is INCORRECT! Also if you order those from a cat dealer, you don't get any pins! Instead, I found the numbers for the the connectors themselves -- can be ordered from Digikey/Mouser.. and I THINK the pins are correct. But I've not yet verified it: Plug: ITT Cannon -...

I wonder if it's related to the "Rock Monster" 60669 / WA-1174 wheel.. Listed as 17 x 8.5 (2-piece). 8 x 6.5" lug pattern.. (only one of that style) Edit: Listed as a 4.51" backspace.. So this will push the wheels out a bit on a HMMWV (if I'm reading it right).

Ended up using "duro Stencil-It" 1" for the TIEDOWN/SLING and 2" for the Unit and Vehicle markings. Looks pretty good, not perfect, but good enough. :) The unit and vehicle number are based on a close friends unit from the mid 90's. She gave me one of the few pictures she had with any...

Finally got the unit and vehicle numbers on the HMMWV and trailer This unit was disbanded around 2000 or so. But was the unit of a close friend, where I copied a photo she had from the mid 90s.

Found some references that the heads can be used, BUT angle is different on the injectors, which can mess with the lines from the injection pump. So ya, they'll "work", but with modification to other stuff.. probably not worth it, if you can either find 6.2L heads or find a shop that can...

The ProMaxx heads are the ones I used on my 6.5L (detuned), I believe they are the same heads for the 6.2L (but please check, I'm not 100% sure). The only criticism I have of the ProMaxx heads is the pre-cup was 'rough', while the original military one was smooth. But I couldn't find a current...

Thanks!

My 1988 M998 has a 6.5L (Detuned) and the 3 speed transmission. The head shield on the cross over pipe is banging horribly (and will likely fall off soon). A previous owner used some metal tie straps to try to hold it in place, but needless to say that isn't lasting. Which cross-over pipe do...

I'm trying to match original stencils on my M1101 trailer. Looking at numerous GovPlanet auctions, I've failed to find a font that seems to match the Stencils. i.e. Does anyone know the Size of the above stencils and a possible font for them or somewhere I can buy them precut for painting...

I can see why the military uses two piece rims instead. Looks to be much easier then that process.

3-speed shift button unscrews.. as does the handle. But if you don't see anything obviously there, then pull linkage off the shifter (under the truck) and verify it moves.. if it does, then it's pretty easy to pull the shift assembly out and take it apart and oil it all.

Where I am Haggerty requires the vehicle to be garaged. Progressive didn't (and was cheaper then Haggerty.. but I'm not in MA)

Wouldn't surprise me if someone poured in some leak stop to try to "fix" a head gasket failure.... but generally that doesn't go in the oil. The pictures to me look more like coolant or just plain water in the oil to the point it's foamed (white) and as said earlier, ruining the engine.

ready to go for a local town parade today. The town American Legion is going to borrow the HMMWV and the new trailer.

I had to replace two when I changed tires. Drove them out with a hammer. The put the new ones in when I tighten the halves together, just do your best to line up the swage in the hole… ohh and I used standard, not deformed lock nuts to do the initial tighten, then replaced with lock nuts once...