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I've got progressive (in Minnesota). I put down the price I paid for the vehicle for the value on mine. They said I could up it, but if I went over $20k, they would likely need/require an appraisal since they don't have any tables for this vehicle. (Note, I've only got no-fault insurance, not...
Welcome! Before you begin, be sure to buy parts from reputable resellers. Personally I use MacMotors and Kascar for most parts, and then fall back to others for things that not being 'authentic' might be ok.
There are ton a bad parts out there, poor reproductions, things that look right but...
Thanks for the font info. I hadn't seen that one before.
Can you snap a picture of the tongue warning, preferably straight down (as much as you can). I'm trying to figure out exact size and placement.
Ya, that looks like it should work well. The bit thicker seal might turn out to me just file. Remember you can always adjust the latch part on the HMMWV as well, this might be all you need.
I finally had time to replace the seals on one of my doors. The 144" seal I got NOS, had about the last 1.5" torn. LUCKILY even at 144", the seal is about 2 to 2.5" too long, so I was able to cut off the torn section, and now my door has a completely new seal. Took about 2 hours for me to...
Yes. Only place I can find it is surplus locations. Buying is Euro and shipping to the US would make it pretty much not worth the cost.
I did finally order 2 from another US based surplus place. I'm hoping this one is not damaged.
5330-01-321-8622 is also unavailable except for NOS parts. I've found nowhere it can be ordered "new". The one I bought NOS had a chunk missing from it, which must have been how it ended up in the military surplus seller's inventory.
As for 21022103 I've looked and can't find it anywhere...
I don't think that will fit. The door frame needs to go in where the 'V' is in your photo. I have some weather stripping I got second hand (I've not yet tried it, but I believe it IS what is on the door OEM.). I'll try to get some pictures with a ruler for measurements.
Edit: re-looking at...
There was a company I found that was using the same style housings for the STE/ICE and putting in a standard car socket or a standard USB charger socket. (How standard? It was the same size sockets you can buy on ebay for a few dollars, only the housing was a bit unique.)
I'm not saying that...
Figured I would add where I got the feeds from in the cluster.
Put in a Y to the oil pressure gauge for line 27 - Power Feed
Put in a Y on the dash light for line 40 - Dash Light Feed. Need to be careful pulling the wire since there is an inner plastic liner in the light connector that popped...
reversing the feet in the radio tray worked. A 2” metal spacer and 3 washers is pretty much perfect. Plenty of room for the tach.
I got the wiring run, and completed behind the dash and to the battery. Wire is run for the rpm sensor, but I’m waiting for the crimper and install tool before I...
If I remember correctly, this should TM-9-2320-280-20 (part 3), in the TM's section.
Go to page 1164/1165, this covers the 'A2' series vehicles (1097 is the reworked A2s).
If I'm right (and I'm not sure I am), you may be able to find some of the other numbers in that harness and see where...
That looks like it could be the tach harness, you have a former USMC vehicle? I've not found the exact pinout for that to have an idea of what that particular line plugs into.
You'll likely need to figure out a way to read the tag or trace it to the other end of the cable and see if you can...
Ok, I have a plan. Anyone have any comments, I'm open to suggestions.
I ended up buying the box that mounts to the doghouse cover. I do NOT plan to drill through the cover, so I'll be adapting things a bit. The first thing I noticed, with the existing radio tray the tray is too close by...
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