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I bought u bolts and plates from ruff stuff specialities for my rear flip. Everything lined up great and came in cheaper than offroad design. ORD has a 2.5" flip kit.

I have the 2"HD lift tuff country springs up front. My springs were so saggy it raised it 3.5". They ride nice and flex well with my sway disconnect. i originally had 2" blocks in the back but switched to a zero lift shackle flip and 6" long shackles.

I sold my 5 m1009 rims with 33" general at2's for $600

I went to disc brakes on my m1009 but with 1 ton axles. It required changing lines, making lines and changed master cylinder. I also had to ditch my e brakes. Still not sure if I need an adjustable proportioning valve. I agree with above, rebuild back to stock and you'll be fine. It's also...

Ssbc I believe makes kits for the 10/12 bolt 6 lug axle. Not sure it's too popular though given the weakness of the 10 bolt and the price of said kit. You could buy a 14b full float axle and disc brakes for the price.

I plan on going electric this summer. Things seem to get a bit warm while wheeling since I drive it like an old turtle. Not sure how I feel about ford parts on it but if that's what fits and works the best.....

So so does it go around the trans pan? That looks quite long.

I have 35's and a 2" lift. Just takes some trimming. Hate tall trucks

You can still buy American made springs. Deaver, tuff country and offroad designs all make springs in the USA. I posted up the rough height dimensions a truck should be with stock suspension. It's in the latest axle swap thread.

I used chrome vinyl wrap in mine and red LED bulbs. Helps a lot with strain out in the mountains but driving in the city makes for slightly hard to read gauges. My digital egt gauge is red which is what started all of this.

I remembered this from an old suspension thread from ORD for ride height, the measurement we work from the most is measuring from top of axle tube to the bumpstop mount on the frame. we figure a stock truck is typically 8.5 to 9" so a 3" lift should end up around 12".

Can you measure from the u bolt plate and the bump stop?

Nope I just looked again, mounts look just how they should. What's the part number on the shock?

Then maybe the mounts are higher up on the new axle? Seems odd

They look too long and your shocks are nearly bottomed out. Did you accidentally order shocks for a lift? couple that with old springs and thats what happens.

Apparently my reply got deleted. Interesting idea but I still think it hurts approach too much. I prefer behind the bumper between the rails.

U bolt flip kit is a great addition. I used ruffstuff parts but the ORD kit does the same thing for more money. The stock design holds water and rusts away. Plus there aren't u bolts to catch on. Did you reuse the front u bolts or buy new? the rear should be easy to get out and new in place...

I made a cover that holds 3 gauges where the dash mount was. I also put my boost gauge on a pod on the steering column.

I have my old driveshaft out in the garage and it's currently 70 out. I can measure the width and cap size for you. I don't have my old axle though. My 14b full float uses a 1350. Just unsure if it's the same for the sf the 10 bolts use the same front and rear. So does the Dana 60 though I...

that first link is my m1009 :grin: