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the main support axle bushing is lubed by the 90wt from the diff. just a little grease on the thrust and spindle bushing is all that is needed. i think the info in the tm for greasing the knuckle is from the days when it was a cv joint. i always put mine togeather dry.

$11.5 is a STEAL......... twice that would be ok.

i had removed upper and lower hoses and the thermostat housing to check and flush things after having an 'issue' with the lower hose collapsing from the suction of the water pump. i ended up putting a spring in it to keep it open. at the same time i installed a new thermostat with a air bleed...

35 year old rubber tends to be hard and brittle, replace them. also replace the gaskets for the breather manifold and replace the hose that connects the pipe to the breather manifold.

several data plates i have say the same thing, 32 qts for cooling system. drained rad and block, no heater, will only hold 22 qts. where does the other 10 qts go?

the torque is given right on the ip head label. i have not had any problems putting used lines from other motors on or swapping ip heads and have done several recently. your results may vary. used or new lines go from cheap to rediculous depending on seller.

just tell them it's for an old deuce you paid $600 for...........

3 rows of tubes, yes.

yes the manual i had said 1600 rpm for droop and that is in fact close to 5 psi and 2400 rpm 9 psi. my suggestion is to just remove the droop screw as some later pumps did, performance at low rpm will be better. having tampered with the needle valve i would suggest bypassing the fdc and then...

i think you will find that the gen panel bulbs push into the rear of the screw in housing.

also note that the rear main has nothing to do with pan gasket.

don't forget to carefully check the steel lines for rust. with single circuit, one small pinhole = no brakes.

since you ask, 1" hg (mercury) is .49 psi. you simply will not notice it. measure it yes, notice it no. 18" is 8.84 psi and 20" is 9.82 psi. experience has shown 12 psi is usually safe, i run mine at 14 to 15 psi with a 'd' turbo and the egt is about the max. the tm is simply erring on the side...

"Bad internal damage" ?? really? the rod is made onto a shoe that cannot turn and is quite substansial. i cannot imagine you would be able to cause any damage unless you tried to strip the threads. this kind of information does nothing to help or educate members. just like the guy that said that...

you guys are going to get into a lot of problems messing with something you know nothing about. 1/6 turn will make almost no noticeable difference unless you have changed something else as well. patrick, your note is backwards, clockwise pulls the rod out which increases fuel rate

and never apply more than 15 psi MAX and do not use air pressure to try to clean things out, you will destroy the fuel metering regulator valves.

RE: Re: RE: Bolt under throttle pedal? if you are in mountains, forget about speed. these trucks are afraid of hills. to check the high idle as it is usually called, just put it in neutral and bring it up to full throttle. dont go past 2900 rpm though as it should go on the govenor by then. i...

you may notice some improved steering with locking hubs. you would have to leave the driveshaft out to improve fuel consumption, but i doubt you could measure the savings. no problem for the transfer but a pita if you wanted front drive. FSB, "removing a hub would make driving pretty...

RE: Re: RE: Pyrometers VDO gauge requires 12 volt power and will not work on 24 volts. i calculated the current draw on 12 volts and used a resistor in series with the power to the gauge since it is a constant. i like the VDO better than others since it has a dc to dc amplifier for the meter...

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: thanks i still don't have a response. they would be chinese. now don't say they are no good, they are suppliers to some of the largest companies and i am pretty sure a lot of cummins and cat stuff is made by them. and they are cheap. an experienced person can take the...