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I got one of their set ups off a fellow members truck a few months ago. I was going to do the copy method for myself. It isn't that easy. A few bends and the holes with sleeves make it so a hydralic press brake is going to be needed. Not many small shops have that. The company they buy it...

The power lead that bolts on needs to be connected as well for the alternator to start charging. Just the pigtail won't do it.

If you go with a swing away tire mount. Make sure it is like the one pictured above. Which is mounted to the bumper. The bed side metal is not made for or reenforced for a swing away tire mount. I think 1976 had a factory K5 mount and then it went away. It went away for a reason. I would...

Does anything happen when you try? Such as the idiot lights changing, noises or clicking? Also, turn on the headlights and try. If they don't dim, the problem is probably before the starter. If they dim, then it is probably starter related. Of course, have you checked your batteries?

Page 2-69 of the -20 manual says to ground the black/yellow wire at the sensor on the radiator with the key on. If the light goes out the sensor is bad. If the light stays on then you have to test the module. I have 3 of these trucks and 2 of htem have had bad sensors. Ground the wire and...

I went through this when I put a 6.2 in my M715. I already had a full set of Auto Meter gauges on that truck since it was switched over to 12 volts before I got it. MPH, RPM, oil psi, temp, volts, fuel and fuel psi. I took a complete CUCV dual alternator set up and put it in the M715. (I like...

Lets start simple. Have you tried pulling the wheel one way or the other as you try turning the key? Often times the pin in the lock plate gets jambed and won't let the key turn. If that isn't it, then the directions above or the TM will tell you how to take it down for needle nose plier...

It was nice talking with you as always Rory. I asked Sam if you guys were going to stop by at the ranch on the way out of town and he said there wasn't time. Next year I will have to make you guys follow us. The off road park we stay at is on the way back home for you.

14.6 volts is considered the most voltage one battery can get and not get hurt. You should have 28.6-29.2 volts at the most with a running M35. It sounds like your alternator is putting out too much. Try adjusting the small screw. Just remember that a little turning goes a long way.

Colton said he can't wait to tell the kids in school how got to run 11 red lights over the weekend.

The M715 pulling the M1009 sure pulls better than the other way around like we did on the way up Friday. Colton and I had a great time. Thanks to Taylor and Clint for riding with him so he could drive on the streets. The museum of the American GI is getting bigger and better each time we go...

No, the green cold idle advance solenoid and the fast idle solenoid wire at the IP is not in any way connected to the radiator low coolant sensor/light.

I concur. Pump the system up to 15 psi in a nice noise free environment. You will be able to hear air leaking.

Where in Texas are you? If you are close to the College Station area, come on out to the Rally this weekend. There will be at least 3 6.2 trucks there and probably more. Somebody years ago started a thread asking about 6.2 noise. The reply asked if it sounded like a bucket full of lawn mower...

What bracket are you replacing and how high do you plan to lift the engine? The fan will hit the shroud before the fuel line gets tight. The exhaust might hit about that time too.

The tow bar is mounted on the M715, most of my tools are in the M715 and RED is going to get topped off on fuel this afternoon. I should be ready to go except for perishable food by dark tomorrow. Anybody else close to being ready?

I used flywheel to keep the terms generic as well. sorry. Not just the power steering bracket, but also the bolts holding the pump to the bracket that work loose and rub against the pulley. I worked on a M1010 that had that problem. It isnt a common problem, but it could also be a bad motor...

I really couldn't hear anything bad. I thought there might have been a metalic click type noise a few times. If so, check your flywheel to torque converter bolts. One of them could be loose and hitting the starter nose cone under hard acceleration. One of my M1009's did this when I first got it.

I will also be coming up TX21. I will go from the junction with US77 all the way in on 21.

Looks my arrival time will change. Colton has an academic UIL competition we just found out Friday. I have no clue when it will be over. We will get there when we get there I guess.