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Normally the throttle lever should return all the way until it hits the stop screw. If the screw has never been fiddled with you might see red marking paint and possibly locking wire on them. The actual stopping of the motor is done by the IP's. So, a stop screw that is out of adjustment or an...

Do you have the hold down clamps on the pumps and just not locked down tight? If the clamps are not on at all, or they are too loose the pin and lever of the IP will hit the underside of the block ( above the rack ) and bind it up. If one cylinder is on the "Pump" lobe of the cam this condition...

Take a peek under the cover and let us know what is missing or broken. I probably have all the pieces of the S7 assembly, just let me know what else you are missing besides the broken spring tab in your picture and I'll take a look in my parts stash.

I believe he said the emergency stop switch was working, however.... Did you check the DC circuit breaker?? It's inside the control cubicle, to the left of the AC select switch mounted to a bracket, it's right above the alternator charging fuse. See it has popped out.

That's a very good price for a real Cummins kit. The knock-off kits actually came down to $66 now!

Hello ECS, FYI, that's the metering pump you took apart, not an injector. I don't think there are any o-rings in the metering pumps, but not 100% positive. There might be an exploded view in the TM. Take a look at the spring down the bottom, make sure it isn't stuck in the compressed position...

Got it, thanks LITD. Yes, Jamawieb I can do them, however I don't have any more needle / nozzle or gasket kits. I can adjust them and clean the ones that are salvagable, but sometimes it's better to replace the nozzle and pintle if they are really bad. Shoot me a PM and we can talk more.

I believe everything also comes in the complete gasket kits available for like $80 on ebay if you search by engine. Also, The preformed gaskets on the tube are just o-rings.

If you decide to rebuild, carefully inspect everything remotely close to that bore, look up and check the bottom of the lifter / metering pump "ledge" to make sure it didn't get whacked by the bust rod. I've only seen 2 motors with broken rods and both had block damage in this area.

The good news ( if I remember correctly ) is that the Wix 51004 oil filter doesn't come with the right square ring gasket for an 002/003 BUT, the 004, 005 and 006 use a different vertical canister which takes the wider flat 4 1/2" diameter gasket which comes with both Wix 51004 and the Fram...

Correct... and Correct... The syncronizer you are talking about allows you to get 2 like-size gen's phase synced, then at the flip of the switch the load is instantly disconnected from 1 machine and transferred to the other machine. You can not even have 2 like size machines sharing the load...

Thanks as always Guy... This machine drives me crazy. It looked like oil was dripping steady from that corner on the pan.... Went back later and started it up and no leak?? I see a little bit around the dipstick tube, so I guess I'll just keep an eye on it. Everything else seems pretty good...

On the pump install, yes, the lever goes to the left, push the rack to the left ( if you removed all 4 pumps either by sticking a finger in one of the other holes or by holding the shutoff lever full counterclockwise. Put the pump in with the pin to the left and get it into the slot in the rack...

Well, not sure what I did but I threw the whole thing back together again, putting a pressure gage in the plugged port on the bottom of the vane pump end cap. Tried to test for pressure and noticed nothing on gage but after several attempts at cranking I heard a slight sputter to the engine...

Hello Guy, well.... decided to get back to fixing the 005 this week. I pulled off the IP and first found the inner shaft seal was folded over allowing fuel to leak into the oil pan. I went through the pump again and didn't really find anything out of order, so reassembled and installed it. I'm...

I'm thinking just buy one of Triple Jim's redesigned regulators and be done with it!

So the metering pump should be 2 1/4" from the under side of the mounting plate to the outside surface of the spring retainer.

I'm going to take a look at a good metering pump tonight, the picture looks like the spring is almost bottomed out to me. Maybe I can get a measurement for you to ensure it is fully extended.

FYI, the holes are almost microscopic, so they are difficult to see without magnification. A single strand of fine wire can b used to clean the holes, but magnification is almost mandatory.... if your eyes are aging like mine!

The 2 big black things with the holes and the main AC wires looped through it are CT1 and CVT1 The one closest to you is the CVT1, the one behind is the CT1 You need to disconnect the small wires by removing the screws and test per the TM and see how your resistance readings compare. Don't be...