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Keep working it out with cleaner in the fuel. If not successful at getting the injector cleaned up, go ahead and pull it out to have a better look. They can be disassembled and cleaned or replacements can be found for about $50 each.

Actually Uniquify, you nailed it! The metering pump in the picture is in fact stuck in the compressed position, I can tell right away! Mesias, you need to clean or rebuild you metering pumps for starters, then maybe check the injectors as well. The injectors have 4 TINY holes around the tip, if...

I've had good luck soaking them in the gallon size carburator cleaner dunk cans. 2 days soaking and then working the plunger while submerged usually frees them up.

You are correct. You should now have just an empty hole. The old well nut was just an expansion type rubber fitting. install the new one as you described, flange on inside, nut on outside....

If the pump tests bad, I can vouch for the airtex E8135, I've used a dozen of them with great results. You should be able to get one for about $35 or so. Drops right in using the fittings you remove from the old square pump.

Any chance you could post a picture of he smoke? Sometimes people's perception of color can somewhat differ. In a heavy / near overload condition you should be seeing more of what I consider a blackish smoke not blueish white. Blueish white without black specks can often mean slightly wet...

Hey, congratulations Guy! Hope everyone is doing great!

Make sure you also clean the AM/VM switch on the front panel. I'd also take Kurt's suggestion and closely monitor the output voltage and see if you are really getting a true over voltage condition or is it a false trigger caused by a bad connection, dirty contact etc.

Running 4 ga copper 50' shouldn't give you more than a volt or 2 drop at the most. Adjusting your machine will not hurt it. If you have a multi meter, check the voltage at the machine and again at the breaker and let us know what you are seeing for drop. The actual position of the knob is...

I'd start by cleaning and exercising both the AC select switch and the AM/VM switch. Many times it's just a dirty connection inside one of the switches. If that doesn't help we will have to dig deeper.

It really would be good if you could somehow swap the regulator somehow. I've seen a couple machines where the transistors on the regulator were the cause of both intermittent and constant high voltage. I just replaced all 3 transistors and it was good to go. Is there any way you could swap...

I believe you assumption about the clamps is correct. The rubber isolator on the clamp makes a brown stain on the white wires over time and the wires near the center of the bundle stay clean while the surrounding ones get brown marks on them. First time I saw it I thought the same thing, I...

FYI, if still in doubt, that wire needs to attach to the wire with the red shrink tube on it. One end of the capacitor also attaches to the red stripe wire and the one that you are questioning. So it needs to be in the 2nd position from the right in your picture. So what's the background here...

Everything the guys above have said is spot on. To add in my .02$ .... If you need to run the 2 water heaters, go with the 803. I normally don't suggest anyone with electric heat or hot water run an 802 simply because either of those 2 will consume most of your power. 802's provide plenty of...

Yes, thanks to both LITD and Guy, your kind words are definitely appreciated!

With just 590 hours I'm surprised your oil pressure is that low. Normally I would expect to see 28 psi or higher. Did you happen to verify pressure with a good mechanical gage? If you end up tearing the motor down to inspect it, take a look at the oil pressure relief valve. You may be loosing...

If interested I'm in RI ( North East ) and have 2 Mep-003A's done, fully serviced, tested and ready to go to work. One is a real nice 1992 Govt. refurbed unit ,done with 131 hours at the time, now with 429 hours and tri-color CARC paint. The other unit has about 1100 hours on it and has a few...

A bad CVT1 can also cause no power, however, I think the test you tried per Tripple Jim's suggestion also takes the CVT1 out of the equation. I still think you need to double check all your connectors. If nothing is found there, might need to start looking at the Gen head.

No, I don't believe that is true. I'm no electrical engineer, but I don't see why you would have a problem with your 120V loads? In a 208v 3 phase config. you still have 120V from each phase to neutral, but you will have 208v ( not 240v ) between any 2 phases because they are 120* apart instead...

On the older 003A's another thing that can cause random "no-power" is a poor connection at one of the bulkhead fittings on the back of the control cubicle or down on the AC reconnect box. Try removing and reinstalling all of the wire harness connectors. It sounds like it worked while you were...