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Stuff I was reading says that the post either needs to be grounded, connected to 12V, or floating. Some of the regulators HAVE to be grounded, some should not be.. bit confusing which is which, but in all cases, connecting the 12V is better for the batteries if it can be done. My intention is...

thanks, I didn't think I was missing a bolt or plug, but wanted to be sure.

I noticed that the the top of my alternator there is a 'threaded hole' (see the picture below). Is this normal, or should there be a bolt/plug/etc in there? (And yes, I know the 12V wire is missing was this way when I got the rig, I plan to resolve that this week.)

I think you are confusing me with someone else. No smashed pan on this thing. Underside of my M998 only shows some minor rust on the transmission oil pan, and a whole lot of dirty from off-roading in my pasture. :). But there are no dents in any of the pans, and the pan surfaces are...

local specialty car used-car dealership. They normally sell classics (pre 1980) cars. Their usual mode is repair the seats, service the vehicle, repair/replace mechanical components that need it, repaint if necessary, etc.. They bought the M998 from someone as a trade-in, were going to...

Ya, I've not checked the CDR at all. I'll add that to the list of things to check.

It's a diesel, it's noisy compared to any of the gasoline or rotary engines I have. ;) But it's way above the range in the service manual, and that makes me nervous. The fact that it's not high across the entire range (like I would expect if something was clogged/pressure relief was bad)...

I don't know. I've messaged the dealership I bought it from to ask. If I had to GUESS it would be 10W30 or 15W40. I know with winter coming soon, I need to move to 10W30.

For simple tach operation, connect the transducer to the fuel line to the injector (I did the one on drivers side, toward the rear of the engine, was easy to get to.). Then connect the red wire of the probe to the transducer, the white clamp to the fuel line.. and then connect the BNC. Set the...

Ok, I've got a manual gauge, and also was able to hook up the tack. So I've got some "real" numbers. 6.5L (2004) Cold idle - 600 RPMs - 35-40 PSI Warm idle 650-700 RPMs - 30-40 PSI 55 MPH - 2800 RPMS - 55-57 PSI 55+ MPH - 3000 RPMS (roughly) - 57-58 PSI The engine never exceeded 60 PSI...

I finally found the instructions. TM-9-2320-280-34. Section 3-19, page 3-40. Engine Injection Pump Timing. So RPMs just connect the RPM part. For timing, there is a 'timing bracket gauge' that comes in the unit toolkit ( 57K0268 ). This along with the Tach & Time will let you get the RPM...

I found a reference to another tester from the same company. This makes more sense to me: https://tinytach.com/pdf/diesel_instructions.pdf So I need to attach the transducer to an injector line, and if it's painted, I may have to sand a bit of the paint off to make a connection. Then the...

You did better than I did and found the PDF version of the manual. It came with that, but it's unclear to me where the transducer needs to be connected on the 6.5L to get an accurate result. I'm not intending to change/adjust timing, more just want to use it as a tach to check RPMs and idle speed.

It's the tach & time tester, can see it here: old gov planet link I've got a 6.5L in my 1988 M998.

Ok, I've suddenly realized I have absolutely no idea how to use this tester to monitor the RPMs on the 6.5L diesel. I'd like to use it as a tach and verify the RPMs. Does anyone have either a pointer (to a TM) or just in general how [and where] to attach this thing? All of the references I've...

My worry would be the vinyl parts or pieces. Depending on the construction, even sitting in a box it can get brittle. (With that said, I just ordered a NOS winterized 2-man NOS top. So I'm sure hoping it's not a problem!) With that said, if there is a new company willing to sell to the...

I was told (not sure how accurate or state specific): 1) It is illegal to drive on a public road before it's registered. 2) You can get insurance to cover it from theft, damage, fire, etc.. but it's insured as an 'object', not a vehicle. You can't insure it as a vehicle until it's registered...

The: | ----- --- - Symbol is ground. On vehicles this is usually chassis. I believe all of the M-series vehicles have a neutral chassis ground, so connecting it directly to neutral (-) on the battery or a good ground point on the chassis should be fine. Edit: reread what you had.. yes...

How do the auto canceling turn signal switches connect? On my M998, I have the cheaper one that doesn't auto cancel and I don't see any holes or anything for the steering wheel shaft to move an actuator or anything.

EDIT: posted to wrong topic, whoops