Search results

Complete kits new in the box were running $750-$1200 last time I was contemplating one.

I have one and like it a lot. Mine is slightly different than the one pictured. Hanco generator, DHS HVAC, and Perkins turbodiesel. "Applied companies" I believe is the name on mine. Very smooth and quiet. I use it for primary power on offgrid property.

On towbars? If so, I would anticipate a high probability of failure of the pintle hitch attachment under emergency braking conditions...

I interpret what he's saying as even with 37's the rpms are high at 60mph. 4.56's and 37's should be a good combination. 4.56's and 35's may result in too high of rpms st hwy speed, depending on your tolerance for rpm and just how much you drive interstate. Personally I'd go with the 37's if...

If you want a sustained 60mph then you want a 4spd transmission. Neither the 6.2 nor the 6.5 will be happy at 60 for long with the 3spd behind it. Personally I don't see a huge difference between the 6.2 and the 6.5. GEP engines are to be preferred, but this is well down the list of...

I traded a decent M35A2 with winch, Whistler, air shift transfer case.... for a decent M998 that the guy couldn't get titled. Including some transport on my end. And I'd happily do it again.

6.2 and 3spd - 14mpg KS to the FL/GA line. 12mpg GA to KS towing a welder on a little trailer.

Or weak batteries may be your only problem. The ABS is very voltage sensitive. Just because it spins that 14 liter engine doesn't mean its enough to appease the ABS light....

And where were you welding?

A couple of M934A2s came out before they were supposed to and were requested back. Some M1102 chassis came out with sensitive items and were recalled. Request letters came out for some of the HEMTTs. Like you, I don't lose any sleep over it. Probability approaches zero that it's going to...

The exhaust brakes are rpm dependant. Jake's are quite a bit better. That said, I have an exhaust brake on my diesel pickup and like it a lot.

Emphatically this. Once its home in your driveway is the time to begin tampering with it, with full support infrastructure and tools and other vehicles. As someone said - "every simple 20 minute job is but one snapped off bolt from becoming a three day ordeal."

Drive or haul?

Check with bikeman. He's in the area and has grabbed stuff for me.

There's plenty of good blacksmith shops. They've changed from a business model of "repair and fab" to a business model of "cottage industry making high end artwork using the old methods" and getting top dollar for their work.... But I get your point. I often describe what I do with milsurp as...

GP is literally getting twice as much for them "wholesale" as I do retail. I have gotten out of the habit of looking at the auctions. I haven't looked since I bought the welder a few months ago. Judging from the fact that the stuff is still selling, enough people are looking (and bidding)...

If you don't need a top speed above 55ish, the 3spd is fine. The 4L80 brings with it a large premium in cost. That said, if you *do* need a top speed above 55 or so, it's better to start off with the 4spd rather than try to add it later. 6.2 vs 6.5. They're all gutless turds. Before paying...

No argument. He specifically asked about the interior differences between an m998 hmmwv and a civvy H1. Apples have thin peel and can be eaten with the peel intact. Oranges have thick peel and generally can't.....

The one I parked next to had a completely different interior than my HMMWV.

If you're going to that much trouble, consider a 6.7 liter Cummins and a G56 transmission. (No idea on any shops....)