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Can be done on rears only, and is done by leaving the rear outer hub oil/grease seal(s) off. For non-CTIS hubs, this is all that would be needed to do. Don't remove the inner hub oil/grease seal or all the bearing oil will drain onto your brakes then the ground. On CTIS rear hubs, only the...

F it. Just run around as the one eyed creeper you are....

This thread is attempting to change direction, but regarding diesel fuel additive, I think there are several available, and for various reasons. There is gelling preventer (white PS bottle), there is gelling dissolver (red "emergency" PS bottle), there is algaecide (white PS bottle, w/green...

I put air shocks on my Mustang when I was a kid. Probably had them pumped up too much, and it broke the shock mounts. So, I'm not a big believer in air shocks anymore. Maybe if I used them how I should have it would have been fine. I'm more for removing lower leafs, and possibly doubling up...

If your full throttle EGT does not exceed 1000F, it is likely not turned up, or at least not that far. Increasing the max fuel metering will not really hurt your mileage unless you are using all of the throttle pedal travel. For just cruising at speed, the fuel rack does not travel to it's...

I just called too, no answer. If it was running then stopped, which is what it sounds like, that is what needs to be focused on for now. Step one would be to add 10 gallons of diesel to the tank. You don't know if the gauge is working or if the fuel tank pickup tube is cracked at a certain...

Move to a higher quality alternator, and you won't need to carry a spare around. :) The starters are relatively decent pieces, though a modern one would be 25 years or so newer, lighter, smaller, and tested to a minimum of 50,0000 cycles.

Very exciting! Can we reach further by swapping over to a P pump? Also, could you at least attempt to quantify performance gains? For example, a simple timed 0-40mph run for each iteration. Stock injectors/stock pump settings, stock injectors/increased injection pump metering, then ...

The rattling when on is likely loose fan blade bolts. Mine made the exact sound you describe when activated. My fan bolts were rusted snug, but after breaking them loose, giving them some lube, and then retorquing them, the rattle went away. Suggest same to others. Break loose, retighten...

Agree. Tell us more about injector options (separate thread). Are the marine ones a bad option like the diesel boards say they are in 5.9L applications (wrong spray angle = idle haze, smoke, and high EGT's)? I think you sell 8.3 injectors, are they marine and how are they on idle haze, smoke...

Disagree. On my 925A2, my fan does not spin at all when the engine is running, until called upon, then it sounds like a hurricane under the hood front. I think the bearings or springs are going bad in any air clutch fan that spins when not called upon. Also check for an air gap at the clutch...

*Crickets*

Parts just arrived for the initial batch of builds. If you already ordered, yours should ship out by this Friday.

Excellent question, but no issue. My design followed the original Cummins layout for this same engine when originally equipped with A/C from the factory. Please notice the alternator belt wrap they did as production. The civilian alternator is about the same total load, 120A @ 12V:

They are cheap through parts yards. Get a used one, put a kit in it, and be done.

The stock alternators use a remote battery voltage sensing wire. If this wire has no voltage on it when running, the regulator keeps trying to increase system voltage until it reaches the target set point. This is likely your issue. Check for voltage on all wires with ignition switch on but...

I also use the locking hand throttle. Works great for everything except 67mph freeway runs.

I'm watching this closely, been wondering and wanting to do same, with the big full size Volvo charge air cooler up front like 4xdesign did and gut the factory after-cooler which chokes out at the 300hp mark.....

No order received. Your mom take your allowance?

Did you get the polarity correct on reconnect? The PCB prevents a power-up if the battery polarity is reversed (it's job), and I don't believe the cables are color coded. Also, you could have PCB solenoids that are tired. They will prevent a dash power-up if so.