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I'm not intelligent enough to know, and too lazy to look it up. Is an M108 a rotator, and was it available with a diesel engine? I'm thinking yes to the first question, because I see stabilizer pads on the sides. Please don't say yes to both, as I'll be posting in the vehicles wanted section.....
In my ever long quest to get better alternators on our machines, reliably, and at a reasonable price, I have posted the correct cast alternator mounts from Cummins to utilize economical and available civilian J-180 "short" alternators. These factory brackets can add $100 to the cost of a...
Could be sucking air on the tank lines. Have you replaced them?
Cummins does not not specify compression data, or even leak down data. They only assess engine health via crankcase blow-by measurement. I did buy an adapter to do compression and leak on my 8.3, but have not used them yet.
You did everything perfect mechanically. I think it was attempting to break in on WMO. Go diesel fuel, we'll load on dyno, and it should be the best running one out there.
Normally, yes, that or towing a loaded trailer is probably the best you can do. I have a precision chassis dyno used for emission system calibration that we can put his truck on and load to spec rpm and hp, so, lucky him, he can follow the manual, up to the point his feathers are sticking out...
That is a cool looking ride. I like it, and I usually don't like a lot of this stuff. Seems handy size, and only a few days away from being a fabulous looker. I'm starting to want a small sized wrecker by seeing this stuff.
Usually such vents at lower levels are more like pressure reliefs, a spring loaded check ball. Fact on these diff vents. So, the 2/3 that May have seemed stuck were probably correct as from the factory, and your third was not. With that, the small air release you had was correct on those two...
It is a 3 wire connector because the solenoid has 2 separate coils within it, just like a starter solenoid. It has a strong "pull" coil (start), and then a weaker "hold" coil (run). Third is ground for both. A starter solenoid does this coil switching inside its case. These solenoids would...
I watched drag race engine builders on TV and in write ups, and they said "We build it up, fire it, set the timing, and then go ring its neck. No break in.". Fabulous!
I know. He never even takes it to 2300rpm, but said he will for the break in, to get close to the 2800rpm. Ugh? He does lots of idle, lots of warm up before driving, etc.... He will stand on it for accelerating the empty truck, up to 1200F EGT, but there is black smoke rolling from the pipe...
Well, for somebody that is a TM thumper, he says he is not going to follow the manual, and instead is going to modify it to his liking of stopping the steps at 2300rpm. I guess if it doesn't turn out right, I'll get to blame procedure not being followed. Stay tuned, he is waiting for the salt...
Yes, rod bolt are new, less than one year old, and the later supposedly stronger style (12 point heads?). Rod bearings also new same time. Rods not further inspected/re-sized/x-rayed, as the engine did not have a prior lower end issue and never tried to compress liquid (stress).
Thanks. The break-in procedure he gave me says 2800r's, so we are going 300r past that. I found one member say he drove for 300 miles @ 2900rpm the entire time on the governor, and his engine is fine. Now if I see a poster say all the rods flew out the oil pan on their engine at 2700rpm for...
You may be one of the only members here to spool it up on a dyno. TM specifies break in procedure, and the final step of that is 64hp @ 2800rpm for a specified time. That is from the manufacturer and instructed to do from the military. WC wants to skip that step or reduce it to a different...
I disagree. One of the two primary products of combustion is water. The other is CO2. Did not do any separate coolant leak checking beyond the 7psi pressure tester. He may do more upon reassembly, but he is not going over 7psi on the radiator per cap rating. He is going to hone the new...
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