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Couldn't agree more. That engine moves around and a massive short will burn your truck down.

Wes or try Feltz tire. Tell them you want 37s factory mounted on combat rims ready to go. Save yourself huge headaches dealing with run flats and hidden punctures.

I would focus on the brake light switch. It causes headaches. The report that your 4 ways works rules out the bulb filaments, lamp grounds. You should have the dual brake light switch. Are you sure it is connected correctly? Is the linkage set up right? Put your ohmmeter on the switch...

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/painting-military-equipment.165334/

What is a M741?

No they vent to the dirty air side.

Back off the adjuster?

86humv from here made them up.

Maybe a CTIS seal leak is pressurizing the axle. Paint some Mr Bubble/water solution on the vent hose and and see if air is coming out.

There’s always grade 9 if you are expecting to put 35,000 lbs of tension on each bolt.

Grade 8.

Too far gone. Too much time wasted with repairing what you got. Sorry

But you have the fording control!!! Seriously, time to post a parts wanted ad.

Oh if you don't want it please post up the location, I have been looking for a rust free 221 forever now.

For sure. Can it be seen on street view?

There is a trend among manufacturers lately to use very light oils in gearboxes to reduce friction and improve fuel economy. For instance my Ford pickup uses ATF in the 5 speed. Maybe this thinking is applicable to 60 year old trucks, who knows.

Nice work cleaning up the mating surfaces. I know it sucks doing that with oil dripping in your eyes. Is that a GEP engine? Never seen the red paint marks before.

Those are not M135 wheels. Never seen that wheel on a military vehicle.

You know what I am way off on this one, you are right, the 101s were always 1 piece. I was thinking M37.

When you reapplied the brake the second time, did the truck stop? Sounds like air is in the system. Oh and for sure fix the compressed air system such that you get 100 psi.