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There is no oil priming pump. The sound is the fuel pump. You won’t get oil pressure until the engine is running.

On the plus side, that is pretty easily repaired. Glad you didn't find the problem inside the generator head. That is a possible sign of loose connections. I'd take the time to go through and make sure EVERY terminal in the power path is nice and tight.

My money is on one bad battery. Might show good on voltage but it may not be making current. Stick a volt meter on each one then hit preheat. See if they hold voltage with the heaters going. If one of the batteries has a problem it will fall flat under load.

Does it make sense to put all the numbers on a list and post it as part of the TM listing for a particular machine?

We did loose power for around 3hrs this morning. The skies have cleared somewhat and the sunshine is peaking through here and there. We got a lot of rain but thankfully here the damage is minor. There were tornadoes reported within a few miles of here. I've not gotten any reports of the damage...

I’m in central NC and expect we will loose power as the winds pick up. The ground is saturated and the trees will struggle to stand against even modest winds. MEPs are fueled and tested.

I had an issue on the most recent auction purchase with the oil pressure being erratic and lower than typical once the oil was up to full temp. Additionally when you shut the unit down the OP would go negative. That suggested that the OP sending unit was bad. Kurt pointed me towards a Autex...

These things are tough but can be broken running them over nameplate for long periods. Keeping the load reasonable will let it give you a nice and long service life.

FYI - The load gauge is calibrated assuming a 0.8 power factor. If you are applying a resistive load you need to take that into account. You were way above 100% at 13kw.

I can do that. I'll be over there later today and will see what I can see. I have a new meter with a pseudo scope function. That could be fun. :D

It was.

Noticed something interesting today. After running the unit with the fluctuating oil pressure, when I shut it down, the oil pressure was -4 PSI. Hm.. maybe I’m dealing with a bad sensor.

I just picked one up that seems to be doing something similar in regards to oil pressure. Its a 2012 model with around 35 hours on it according to both the on screen and mechanical meters. All of the storage compartments are still sealed so this is one was never issued out before it was...

I know this is really overkill for an 831 BUT you may be able to pick one up for LESS than a DIY build.

After a good bit of research the easiest thing for me was to buy one of the construction distro boxes. It has breakers and GFCI protection. I picked up an amazon return for cheap. The only problem was one of the spring legs was slightly bent. A 5 minute fix to make it just like new and its now...

I've also given up on the "factory" line. It lasts at best a few years then starts leaking. I'm using the 1/8" Gates fuel line on the return and 1/4" Gates fuel line on the supply.

When I was watching the video I thought the phase voltages were off more than I had seen on other machines. I’ve not seen more than 1 or 2 volts difference on these smaller machines. That was on the 80x series. On the few 10xx series machines I’ve run, they have all been spot on. I’d recommend...

I have the feeling you had a few shorted windings on the stator that was causing the voltage imbalance. loading it up to the hilt just caused the damage to progress to what you ended up with. hope you can find a stator that isn’t ridiculously priced.

Took some time today and gave them both a severe cleaning. They look so much better.

Got a new belt installed. The "metric" version of the belt wasn't available but the imperial version was available at O'Rileys. The number I bought was 3VX350 for $25. You can get the belts cheaper online but if you need one RIGHT NOW, you can go this route. The job requires only a 10mm socket...