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My experience has been put nothing on the floor and just keep it painted. But I have also had great success with Line X. I had a DIY brush in liner and had terrible results. A false sense of protection that failed in a few years and took me months to clean and repair and in the end I had LineX...

The vent is located behind these slats in each door. It allows the pressure to release when the windows are all closed and you shut the doors. It also allows air pressure in the cab to escape during running the fan when all the windows are closed. Most old Chevys dont need any help allowing the...

I seen 2 CUCV's that had a slave cable port on the rear bumper. One was an M1009 and the other was a Pickup. It was not OEM but none the less they were there. Power points for whatever. Are the cables you have long enough to reach a certain point front or rear. Possibly a 24-volt winch. Heaven...

Are you talking the cables that ran back under the passenger's side rocker and to the radio rack?

I installed the door baffles after a hood cleaning. That is another step. I have the passenger side door handle sanded and painted. Paint is drying. Take Care.

I don't think they were concerned as much about rust as much as giving a non-slip surface because the wet bare floor was like ice in winter. When they rusted the military would code H the vehicle and sell or destroy it. No loss. Safety was more important to them than RUST.

It was a non-skid coating that was applied. I had seen a military directive to remove all the rubber mats and sound deadening material from the CUCV's. All that OEM mat and jute did was create a rust haven. As many of you know that material will stay wet for months and years if sitting outside...

Right door glass is in place with the run seals all in place. I need to install the outer belt molding seal. Genuine GM one I bought 20+ years ago. Door glass is all in place and seals are installed. Another successful day complete. May work on it tomorrow. I will see how I feel. Take Care.

I went upstairs in the barn and sorted thru the glass I had and found a near perfect candidate for the job at hand. This is the drive screw that holds the door together under the wing vent. And this is the J Nut. This type of J nut is found thru out the truck on taillamp's and side marker...

I have seen enough worn-out front drive shafts I can tell when they need replaced. The splines in the male and female part have wobble. I can guarantee that. I worked on CUCV's for a minute or two. That type one drive shaft was always an issue with spline wear. The welds look like it may have...

I finished the driver's side door with a freshly painted handle and new gaskets. The white specks are paper towel residue. I was looking thru my selection of right windows and came across some with rough sashes. I chose the best one I had and installed it in the door without the weather strip...

Crazy as it may sound I have used new driveshafts and they are complete with all new parts. They are balanced. Looking at the driveshaft you are showing I can see worn splines on the main shaft and am sure 40 years has not been kind to the CV joint. Just a suggestion to replace it with new...

My fishing trip was a success as far as getting out and doing something relaxing. I arrive at the river at 0900 and fished till 1600. I only caught 1 18” Flathead Catfish. That species is considered an evasive species by Maryland DNR so I gave it the death sentence and feed it to the vultures...

If you are close I have a few decent doors. Some brand new.

After all my struggles to get the OEM black rear window crank together and trying to find a lock cylinder that I could have coded or a coded cylinder I was able to find one in a cabinet drawer in my barn. A brand new GM uncoded cylinder. I bought one from YOT on line but it had the old school...

I have it. I have lock cylinders with no keys for parts.

Easy. Yes. Dorman 75510 can be bought on Amazon the great river has everything. Google 1984 GM door lock pawls. it has the bars and the clips you desire.