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I'm excited to hear the experts weigh in on this one. My one suggestion would be to pull the clear fuel out of the tank and put some red dyed Diesel in, that might make it easier to find the source back in there...maybe it helps, dunno. Good luck! Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Lay it out in the sun so it warms up, then just start folding however you see fit. Store it on a shelf high and dry. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

@kloppk has all the goodies you need to automate that beast, he has the Quad Fuse kit and MOV if those aren't done yet. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I like Champion in SoCal. They make a very nice piece, reasonable price too. Whoever you talk to to order whatever you decide, tell them you have an '84 K30 with 6.2L Diesel and TH400 trans...do not tell them it's a CUCV, it just confuses most folks. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Wow, thanks for posting this! I have a low hour 802 that drops frequency as the load increases, I could always compensate with the adjustment knob. It never registered in my mind that it needs an adjustment, just been added to the to-do list. @Ray70 I appreciate the refrence docs! Sent from my...

From this side of my keyboard it seems to me that The Parts House is a distributor for Orscheln products, of whom was the original mfg of the cables for Uncle Sam. Recently one of my saved searches on eBay popped up another Orscheln distributor who has done the work to recreate our cables and...

If it works, I dig it! Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Not UT, but for context...I bought one in AZ with only a bill of sale. DMV issued a bonded title for a menial additional fee, and was converted to a normal title after 1 year. NV won't issue a title for any trailer with a generator on it, they deem it "towable equipment". Several other states...

Start at the fuse block, then check the switch that's at the pedal. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I've been bangin' around this forum for a couple few years now and haven't come across it...never even considered it needing to be a thing. Thanks for keeping the idea alive!

I dig adding the mechanical gauge, and that's a sweet spot for it. Thanks for the parts links, I added them to my cart. Nicely done! Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I believe you have the correct theory at play. They make transfer switches that will also switch the Neutral (in place of the panel you described), but they aren't cheap. Just flipping breakers definitely won't be enough. The manual interlock at the first disconnect means will be critical...

As far that my research has led me, I understand that the only legal/safe means to play the game you're describing is to backfeed one panel or the other with some sort of manual transfer like a Twistlock SO cord to separate feed outlets. I strongly recommend you retain the services of a...

First step of troubleshooting: duplicate the discrepancy. Since you have that done, don't reset that CB more than once for things like to melt and catch fire if you do. There's some fault logic troubleshooting guides in the TM that may prove useful. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

If you're hard set for a hard copy, you can take the various PDFs from the link I shared on a USB drive or CD to your local print service and they can not only print it but can 3-hole punch or bind it for you.

Have you visited the SS TM section and downloaded all the manuals for your toy? There's another cornucopia of information to get lost in: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/forums/cucv-tms.114/ The exploded parts diagrams and applicable part numbers will be found in the files with a "P" at the end...

Food for thought: Wether Uncle Sam under-rated the capacities or not, the GVWR stamped on the tongue tag is the legal disclosure of what the manufacturer says it can safely weigh and stop fully loaded. This is often discarded in the non-CDL world, and is a moot point for most folks most...

One p/n (1037) is for the LMM trucks, the other (1036) is the very popular upgrade that only came on the '11 LML trucks which is highly adapted to the GMT800 trucks for a substantial braking upgrade...hence why they're cheaper and widely available. As noted, both of the p/n you referenced are...

It's your kid's whip. Get him a reman from Napa and let him do the work while you look on so if the o-rings leak again (there are no gaskets) then he will know how to fix it, and the parts are warrantied...then he can teach his kid, or he can take it to a shop. IMPO you're asking pretty high...

If you're only looking to fix something once, I'm confident that an 87 K5 is the wrong vehicle for your kid to own let alone any imperfect machine built by an imperfect human. I'd advise against attempting an interchange as that complicates things later on unless you're an enthusiast which it...