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Thanks for the update. So far I have found no issues charing optima batteries with my 24v battery tender.

I think the limit of the generators would be where the voltage and/or freq drop to unacceptable levels, not necessarily the engine sound or temperature. I have viewed some of the load bank videos and just because the engine doesn't die does not mean that it can properly handle a load.

They sell small propane forced air heaters which run on rechargable battery packs. Might be easier to hit it with that for 10min if it wont start than to run a block heater 24/7.

Are you sure the aux tank needs to be higher? I would think that they would be smarter than having a system like that, especially considering trailer mounted gensets.

Here is the reply I received when I inquired about the fitting. "Correct, the adapter is an AN-5 size fitting. I believe you can also use JIC #5 and SAE 5/16" flare tube since AN-5 is an oddball size that is difficult to source." in regards to a return fuel line there is none needed. The aux...

At 125% it is probably close to 52A. I run 4/4 wire, 60A plug and 60A breaker.

Probably a stuck relay caused the start issue and is no longer stuck.

Did you try to restart after shutting down? If it restarts 2-3 times without any special "trick" I wouldnt worry about it.

The jumper bar may not be copper and it could be missing (which is why I am warning you), but there are two small studs on the far lower right side of the connection panel. These studs are what jumper nuteral to ground when the application calls for it.

120V would be 3-wires (hot, nuteral and ground). Your 240V should be 4-wire (2-hot, nuetral and ground). For a typical stand alone generator not connected to a house with its own ground, you would drive a ground rod and make sure the copper jumper is in place between nuteral and ground in the...

Make sure you are grounding properly. I am no expert in electrical so you should consult with an electrician to be safe if you have any doubts about your particular setup.

You have to be careful with the convenience receptacles because they are only rated for 10A and you can easily trip the generator breaker. I would wire another set of wires into the power panel if you need additional 120v outlets. I have mine wired with a 4/4 60A plug and a 6/3 30/50A plug...

The 803A can output much more than 50A 240v, but the RV should have internal breakers to protect the wiring, so I think you will be fine. I used a 60A breaker and 4/4 to connect my 803A to my house.

Thanks Mike. Crap $50 oil change.

Did some checking locally and could not find the TY22057, which appears to be a Canadian number. I did find the equivalent US number TY26661 (1 gal), and it was on the shelf. It is 10W-30 and should be used for 100 hours and no more than 500 hours. My 803A only has 7 hours since remanufactured...

I bet it was this. John Deere Engine Break-In Oil (part number TY22057)

Thanks for the detailed explanation. You provided far more specific info than I have found on the net but I do have one question and that is, what benefit is there in grounding to the frame? Maybe a dumb question..

I was wondering the same thing as I use my MEP to power a welder when not in home standby service. I dont think this is much different than a welder/generator setup on back of a pickup and after talking to some professional welders, they rarely run a ground and in many cases cant due to working...

Nice logs, and thanks for sharing.

I would go with option 2 from Daybreak. The RV already has plenty of circuit breaker inside.