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Could be bio sludge. Several years ago I was in Wyoming, and filled up at a Safeway in Laramie (apparently you get what you pay for). As I was driving over a 9000+ foot back roads pass towards Colorado, the engine started sputtering, and I could barely keep it running, by keeping the pedal on...

I would match the hose to the hard line. Using a hose that is too large will cause too much deformation and stress in the rubber when tightening down the hose clamp to get a good seal. That will lead to an earlier failure of the hose.

I would almost bet "they" bent the rod ends wide open, and just pushed in the wrong ends, then clamped the hell out of them. No worries about cross threading anything, just "compression fit" everything. Curious, what did the threads look like after you got them apart?

Are you applying enough heat? There is way too much paint left in the pictures. All that paint and the boots should be toast.

Do you have enough room to get a Dremel with cutoff disc in there, or a nut splitter on the nut? Or, run a hacksaw through the center of the bolt, right through the nut after pulling out the bucket. Brute force may not work, and damage the fiberglass. Do you have the metal reinforcement ring...

HPG has a sale for .99 cents ea.

Correct. It's nondirectional. I usually use the bottom as inlet, that way, any air will get pushed out easier, although at the flowrate I doubt it will matter.

Check the hose from the top barb going to the cadillac valve. Make sure it is clear. Disconnect the hose at the cadillac valve, and blow air through the cooler and the top hose. If that is clear, and your new hose blows off, then you know that the problem is either the cadillac valve, or the...

Follow the return line hand over hand and see if it is kinked or squished anywhere.

Anerobics allow adjustment of the parts, until they are clamped together. Most Anerobics are very poor at filling any large gaps. They are for machined surfaces as someone previously stated. RTV's (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) sealers can fill gaps, but start to cure as soon as exposed to air...

That is part of the air conditioning system. The faster you go the cooler it gets......

I run a bead of "Slime" on the inside of the O-ring before I assemble the rim. No more leaks.

The failed plug in the picture has seen some severe heat. Either too much fuel, or something wrong in the precombustion chamber, directing the detonation towards the plug instead of down into the combustion chamber. Do you have any way to disconnect the fuel line from that injector, and another...

You say "melted". Are they just burning out, or are they actually melted?

It is possible that you have a 12K gear. Many years ago I wanted to increase the strength of my axles, and bought an 12K upgrade kit from SAX, which involved replacing the 10K gears with 12K gears, new bearings, and 12K axles. Both gears fit in the same housing.

Check the washer that the bolt goes through to hold the shaft in the gear. If its deformed (or the wrong washer), and binds against the housing, it could cause the bolt to back out when reversing. Also check the distance between the bolt head, and the hole plug. Compare the left and right side...

Have you tried the manufacturer? ELTAM is in Israel. Lighting for Armored Vehicles (eltam-eh.com)

I just did a google image search on the picture he is using on his Facebook page. It is the same picture as the workshop picture on the "Military Truck Works" website. Look at the shelves, the lifts, and the sand blast cabinet. Our Shop | Military Truck Works I just sent them a message to let...

Could be as simple as a bad wire, or bad or disconnected sensor. First, start by pulling the transmission error codes to see if they point at a specific error. Look at TM 9-2320-280-20-1 section 2-35 and the attached document. In my case it was a bad TPS signal.

Could be low voltage. Check the voltage at the solenoid when this happens. It could be a weak battery or bad connection. When cold starting, and the glowplugs re-energize while cranking, the voltage could go low enough to drop out the solenoid. Do some more testing before replacing anything...