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Better to have and not need than vice versa.

That is the proper CYA approach. No 'he said - he said' monkey business then. But, you do need to be able to find that paperwork for the rest of your life (or send it to DLA for their records). Sending to DLA and having them annotate your EUC with the new owner information would take you out...

Several of us here on SS have piston assemblies (piston, liner and oiler) because we got them back in the early 20-teens when a lot of that stuff got surplussed. Finding where they have been squirreled away will be the problem.

Glad i got a roboimpact back when they were available.

I will probably arrive early in the afternoon on Thursday, staying till after supper on Saturday.

There is also the VA Rally set over Labor Day weekend, held at the Graves Mountain Resort in Syria, VA (north of Charlottesville).

There is actually a thread here (maybe in one of the 'stickies') that will tell you exactly what each numbered wire is used for. Hence wire 14B will always connect the same two parts electrically, no matter what vehicle it is found in. There is a list of the wire numbers in that thread...

I posted an address and phone number in the first entry of this thread. Contact them direct. This thread is nine years old.

usually the screens on the bottom of the pump have come loose, pull the pump and verify.

Most of us use Rotella T4 15W-40, other use the Mobil version.

Is the FDC bypassed? That is a great cause of fuel getting into the oil. There are some other places on the IP that can leak fuel into the oil. Search for "Bypass Fuel Density Compensator" here on the site.

Normal ratio for boiocides is one part biocide to 50 parts fuel when dealing with severe buildups. Probably need to remove filter canisters and throughly clean them before trying to push any liquids through them. Yes, you will have to 'sacrifice' a set of filters, but they will catch what is...

Actually I think you are smart enough to not burn that bridge till you have crossed over the new one at least once.

Stretch them. You have three sizes, the longest goes on the sides, then the middle piece should have 'fire exit' painted on the inside - that part goes in the middle, then the smallest panel goes over the remaining part of the end. Remember, the military generally had this smallest part open...

The pan in the second picture is what I use to make the 'poppabear' Chilimac in. For just one of those pans you would need about 2.7 kilos of macaroni, cooked and put into the pan, add 1.7 liters of ketchup, and two #10 cans of 'chili no beans'. The US #10 can is 18 cm high and 15.5 cm in...

Ditto. If you were on I-20, you passed within half a mile of my house going through Lexington, SC.

CARC 383 Green, CARC black, CARC Woodland Brown. Search the Behr Paint threads for the correct FSS numbers.

I did pretty much the same thing several years ago, but used a single piece of house siding, trimmed down to fit. I posted pics here on the site after I did it. Still holding up, but the top has seen better days. I will be replacing it with a hard top this spring.

If I can find my hole cover plates, I can send one of my two hole ones and replace it with a NATO style that I already have. I'm not worried about 'period correct', these trucks were used for 50 years, and the military upgraded them throughout their entire life as circumstances dictated.

Change a wire or a cable, then get a 'mechanics lein' on the vehicle. It may take a year or so depending on your state's laws, but you will get a title.