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Please don't get me started on the behind the counter morons! I knew they didn't know much and that was confirmed when one told me I could only go up one spark plug heat range at a time because the engine had to get used to it! yeah right.

Yes, that little button(?) is the release for the arm, there is a tool available for it but doubt you will find it anywhere other than a tool truck possibly not even there. Not to worry, place a plastic body filler spreader (or something similar) on the panel and use a flat tip screw driver to...

Did you ever change the lift pump?

Save the reinforcements from the underside of the old panels and install them on the newer ones, you will have to drill a few holes for the battery trays.

Don't over think this! If you are opening the bleeders and the calipers don't release, then it's got to be the calipers. There is no spring inside the calipers, the only thing that draws the piston back is the lack of pressure hyd. pushing it out (vacuum?)

Make sure you order the one for a 1984 NOT the model year your truck is! You want one of the top two pictured, the third pic is of a flywheel but yet they are calling it a flexplate , possible wrong image as they are quite a bit more $$

LOL, Why have a truck then?

Nike's and other china junk.

Sounds stupid, but are you sure the calipers are sticking? I haven't had a rotor turned in years and never measured runout but could that be the problem? Remember the piston only moves back a few thousands when pressure is released, if the rotor is rough or has essive runout then it's possible...

To me the fact that the lift pump DROPS pressure means it's failing. I'd start with a lift pump and plan on an IP too.

That doesn't always work. :(

That left side looks ahh somewhere between rough and gone! Up here in NY I could see that price for a good shell or a plow truck in that shape.

In my limited experience it seems that nobody has ever even seen that bearing let alone replaced it! Almost every truck I've ever torn down (1st time) that bearing was either dry as a bone or seized up or both.

OH YEAH, I forgot about the power steering pump, if the civvie does have A/C then the engine may have a remote PS reservoir mounted up near the intake manifold. Ifso save and use that! Much easier to fill then the one mounted down on the pump. If you don't use it, it makes a nice hydraulic...

If you look at the harness where it goes to the fire wall, you'll see it breaks down into 3 sections, one for the taillights, one for the front light and the third for the engine. Just leave them all in place, the only 24v on the truck is the starter/relay and slave receptacle and the voltmeter...

Answer for both is yes, order #2 and #25 from Hillbilly but before hooking them up get a spray can of auto transmission cooler flush and flush the oil cooler in the Rad and Hillbilly's lines. The last thing you want on a new engine is finding old contaminates in the cooler! All the alternator...

If you look closely you can see the bolts on the back of the mounting bar have nuts counter sunk in the plastic portion of the mount. I'd say yes, you can change it out but why? I'd just use the old bar itself in the new mount, it's not correct but if it works then who are we to judge? The PO...

What ? You want some?

To answer the PSI question, approximately 7lbs so neoprene hose and clamp would do BUT steel is better!

Older vehicles always require more Maintenace and repair and if can't or won't do the only other alternative is pay someone else to do it (as you well know). Think about all the cash you could save by learning even just basic stuff like trouble shooting the charging system and rebuilding the...