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I think I am getting a bit of the mystic powers bestowed upon me just being an acquaintance of the "center of the MV universe". I can foresee some future gonad torqueing. Mr. Carl, you may want to go back to page 1 of this thread and read the format The Great CARNAC wants, then quickly edit your...
Every time I hear about moving the transfer case back, I wonder about the u-joint angles to the front-rear axle at full suspension compression/extension. Does anyone know the limit before issues arise?
I do not think 60 cfm is right. You only have a small timeframe to get the air in there so flowrate during that period needs to be higher. It would be 60 cfm if you have a full minute to fill the cylinder.
Several have done that on the deuce so I would think it similar. I did my deuce by using one original belt for the 24V alt in the stock location and building a bracket for the 12V alt above it. The second belt groves are used for that alt with an appropriate sized belt.
Here are the pics. I like to carry around a cooler on top of the spare, bungied to the frame and mud flap. It is easier to get a beverage from there than crawling in the back and the get bounce around much less. That pic shows the clearance to the road tire with the front rear axle pushed...
Quite frankly, I had not read the thread before I did mine (search did not work well). A tap measure seemed to indicate it would be close but might work so I started by hanging the large spare on. I could see the interference with the tool box support right away and it did seem all I would need...
Some pics of someone else's mods are posted on the link in post 25 below. If those don't do it for you, let me know and I will take some pics of my version. BTW, that thread below talks about leaving the spare deflated to gain clearance between it and the road tire. I do not do that. I have...
I have a 395/85/R20 Goodyear MVT on a stock deuce wheel mounted in the stock location. All it took was about one hour with a recip saw and rat-tail file. I trimmed the rear tool box support arm by cutting away some of the rear flange material. I trimmed a small amount of the inboard bottom edge...
As far as wanting more power, most everyone does and large tires do not help in that regard. However, there were two primary reasons for the 395's on my truck. They were readily available (meaning reasonably priced including shipping costs) and they provide the most effective gear ratio...
I have an old civil defense Geiger counter that was working the last time I put fresh batteries in it so it probably still works. It does however, have a small radioactive source installed for self-checking (that is how I knew it was working) so shipping it around is probably a problem.
If you are asking if that is the same as what Welldigger is suggesting, no that is not it. This is a gear oil and he suggested you use 40 weight motor oil (non-detergent).
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