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That' what I thought.I wasn't 100% sure though. I had looked in the TM's and got the part number for the brake pads and called the part store with that and they said they were discontinued. I just have a hard time believing that.
My brakes are starting to make noise on my M1009 and might need to be replaced. I'm gonna get in there and look around this weekend to get an idea of exactly whats going on. I'm pricing everything out just in case. The question I have is, when ordering parts at the part store are my pads...
I second Doghead, here's a testing procedure almost word for word from the TM:
Disconnect each glow plug lead and check for resistance between glow plug terminal and ground. Resistance should be 0.45-3 ohms for the Wellman plugs or 1-3 ohms for the GM plugs. Check glow plugs for looseness or...
That's a good idea. I had to think about it for a second but I don't think it would work. There is a 1/4" barb fitting going into the IP right under the intake manifold. I can't get my hand in there to push the new hose on.
Well I got it all bled out and didn't see any leaks. The ball valve I used for the bleeder worked out great. Test drove it and all seems to be good. I still need to figure out how to replace all of the 1/4" hose going into the IP. It looks like I'm going to have to remove the intake to do...
So here are some pictures from mine. I used the WIX base and the Wix fuel filter.
I used maybe a foot of 1/4 inch hose and a foot of 3/8 fuel hose. Total parts, under $100.
The 6.2L is not a drag racer. It is a really easy to work on motor but it has its quirks like anything else. You want to make sure the harmonic balancer is good. They start to wear and can eventually cause main bearing cracks.
Like said before, the injection pump is the most complicated part...
Awesome, thank you. I didn't even think of that. Off to the hardware store in the morning. I'm attempting this on Saturday. I'll try to post pictures through out and when it done.
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