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You may have a bad battery.
Also sometimes the alternators are to blame. Either the trio-diode or the rectifier are the culprits. Unplug the 2-pin connector and see what happens overnight. Try each individually.
Buy a battery load tester and the next time it drains check each battery. Harbor...
All of your issues are common ones that have been address here many times. The CUCV Helpful Threads sticky has many of the common issues listed.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?123199-CUCV-Helpful-Threads
All the part numbers are in the free parts manuals that are available here...
Looks like to only wiring hacking is at the 12v power terminal. There was a short and a small fire at some point.
The easiest and best way to fix your issues is to fix that spot.
A diamond shaped terminal block can be had at almost any pull-a-part yard. I may even have a couple in my parts...
Batteries are not built like they use to be. 4 years is a good average. I have seen many last longer and some not last at all.
We have covered different replacement batteries hundreds of times. Using the Search function reveals hundreds of threads.
Which one is right for you depends on how...
Here is a good primer for all the Deuce models.
http://olive-drab.com/od_mvg_www_deuce_m35.php
The actual Family number for the Deuce is the M44 series of trucks (early 5-tons are M809 and the later 5-tons the M939)
Only way to tell which turbo is one the truck (if there is one) is by the...
Or look in the Stickies
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?128479-So-You-Want-to-Buy-a-Deuce
You are a little late to the party. Very few Deuces are left in the military. Most have been scrapped or bought by individual owners.
The "C" in the M35A2C means it is a drop side cargo bed...
Take it outside guys.
Rick you do know why some people do the modification. From now on just say you disagree and leave it at that.
Better yet write a thread about "why" you leave your trucks stock and I will make it a sticky. That way others can make up their own mind.
I had a brain fart. The Throttle Valve (TV) cable is the one you want. It clips on the bracket and if memory serves me there is a bolt holding it on the transmission.
And the actual throttle cable is getting hard to find so grab it also. And the transmission and transfer are worth some money...
Two bolts and a pair of pliers. Located where the glow plug coolant sensor is located.
1982-1991 Suburbans
1982-1987 pickups
Which ever ones had the 700R4/4L60. Can't remember when they started introducing the 4l60E.
If the TV cable is in good condition you will want it also.
First off check that your batteries are indeed fully charged and load tested. Optimas are not that good anymore.
And then get a voltmeter and start checking voltages on alternators.
Without this info we are all just guessing.
As you found out that diode is for the GEN2 exciter circuit. It is a required item.
I think I have the twin to your truck. I call her Rusty.
The truck came from the Chicago area and I can watch the rust grow daily. Actually yours looks a little better. ;-)
Your truck has has the GLow plug system require from 24v to 12v. Many members do this to save their glow plugs. There are many threads covering this.
The last picture is the noise suppressor for the military radios. It is not needed and can be removed.
In the years that I have been messing with the CUCVs, I have only run across 3 of the brackets. I bought one on fleabay for ~$75 and only found two in the salvage yard.
Good luck on your quest.
Remove the two pin connector from the alternator and check the voltages with the key off and the key in the run position.
This is what you should be reading with the passenger side alternator with the correct Rosscommon 12v conversion.
Key off
red wire - 12v
brown wire - zero
Key on
red wire -...
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