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Engine block might still be ok. Pull it and tear it down looking closely for cracks. I rebuilt a GMC 302 that threw a rod, block skirt has a booboo where the rod end whacked it but otherwise it runs great.

Subscribed. I tried a huge two jaw puller with heating the yoke and it just laughed at me. Meritor used some kind of super sealant.

United States of Freight has moved numerous trucks for me, perfect performance each time.

Steve you are talking about the injection pump right? I see no way the fuel pump could cause this.

NAPA or Vintage Power Wagons are my go to’s. No holes? Yuck.

My trusty M915 slick. Bone stock except for 11R22.5s. Came from an equipment concentration site (ECS), they painted it white for some reason.

Did you try running the engine? It might come shooting out

Opening a can of worms …. Pan gasket until more is called for.

To me, military systems that were significant in conflicts are what are worthy of preservation. That said, DoD procures all kinds of systems that are often dismal failures. I shed no tears when those failures are made into storage shacks, ham shacks and the like. You say one museum has...

Comes back as a 1969 M35A2 without winch. The frame number you are looking for is 032518011. Use this for your title. The first part 04D98589 is the US Army registration number and it won't be on the frame, it was painted on the hood during the Vietnam era and inside the door later on. The...

Here in the TM section: Military Wire ID tag master code list | SteelSoldiers

The cable already attached to the alt is the ground. The cable with the lug goes under the cover held on with screws. My memory fails me on the Packard connector.

The registration number follows the Air Force pattern.

What front end damage are you talking about? Yeah engine is full of rain but otherwise looks like an almost complete truck to put on the road. And you basically stole it at $3600.

Looking at this again on a laptop, the connector is not for a 100 amp system. I think I see a taped up wire in your pics. See if it has continuity to the +24 volt battery terminal. If so that is your alternator wire.

See if you can find a taped up cable around 3/8” dia in the vicinity of the 60 amp alternator. That would have been the oem wiring for the alternator. The large connector is part of a kit that was depot installed.

Theories? Looks like a one-of prototype of a means to transport cylindrical objects that uncle spent stupid money having manufactured.

Not much. All 3 are aluminum and 70 years old in need of overhaul.

It would have a connector like in your picture and the alternator cable would be removed. This is to support the 100 amp system.

Was your Goat a shelter carrier?